Re-discoverying my home country
This is my home country that I left at the age of 15 when I relocated to the U.S. with my family. I had spent little time in Japan as an adult, and it was about time I explored my own country.
Though I had returned to Japan periodically, I admit it was a real culture shock this time after having spent nearly a month immersed in spirituality in holy Rishikesh, India (click here for the post) and sitting in silent meditation for 10 days in Vipassana earlier this year (click here for the post). The conventional “luxury” paled in comparison to the wealth of divinity, and materialism now seemed just silly. My hometown Tokyo felt overwhelming with overt consumerism and relentless sensory attacks. There was not going to be any fitting in.
Fortunately, even though spirituality may be largely lost in the modern Japanese culture, Japan is blessed with rich nature given its mountainous island geography (~80% mountains). The ancient Shinto religion native to Japan is closely associated with nature worship. It was in the mountains and remote villages I experienced the best of Japan. It also helped that I was in Japan during the prime spring sakura (cherry blossom) and shinryoku (young green leaves) season.
TRIP Overview & Logistics
After spending two weeks in Tokyo, I ventured out on a 3-week domestic trip in mid-April with a particular focus on experiencing Japan’s rich nature and religious heritage.
I travelled from Hokkaido in the north to Hiroshima in the southwest, stopping in Akita, Mt. Fuji, Kyoto, Koyasan, Kumano Kodo mountain trails, Ise, Osaka, Hiroshima, Okayama and Kagawa (Shikoku island).
I used a coveted JR rail pass (60,000 yen, or ~US$510 at the time) made available to international travelers, which was a bargain considering a one-way bullet train ticket from Tokyo to Hokkaido alone costs over 20,000 yen (note: you have to buy a voucher overseas prior to entering Japan). The flexibility of hopping onto bullet trains without reservations was an added bonus (unless you are on reserved-seating only trains).
Japanese bullet trains are fast, clean, and highly reliable. I considered train time to be an integral part of sightseeing, offering some of the prettiest views of the countryside, mountains, and ocean. My favorite ride was from Tokyo to Hokkaido, now linked by bullet trains, which included views of snow-capped mountains on one side and ocean on the other after emerging from a 25-minute ride through Seikan tunnel (23km/15 miles undersea). The view of the majestic Mt. Fuji from a bullet train between Tokyo and Shizuoka never gets old.
I stayed at ryokan (Japanese style hotels) and minshuku (bed & breakfast) places with hot springs wherever I could. I have grown to like traditional barely furnished tatami rooms for simplicity and subtle scent and feel of tatami straw under bare feet, not to mention efficiency with space (I can practice yoga when futon mattress is rolled away). While ryokan stays frequently include elaborate in-room dinners, I needed to opt out this time to avoid overindulging during my extended trip.
Here is a highlight of my Japan experiences and destinations.
Sakura Cherry Blossoms
I landed in Tokyo on March 31, hoping to catch the end of a cherry blossom season. Cherry blossoms typically bloom for only about a week, including 2-3 days of peak bloom, and the timing is subject to whims of weather and is highly localized. This year, thanks to the mild winter and a cool start to the spring, the blooming season had been delayed, and the tiny buds were just beginning to open in Tokyo when I arrived.
During the first week of April, the city grew noticeably prettier by the day as petals began to pop open everywhere, invoking anticipation of the coming spring season. After a few days, the entire city seemed to be dressed in pale pink and was overtaken by large crowds that gathered under the blooming trees to celebrate. While there are numerous famous cherry blossom spots throughout the city, the sight of even a single tree in full bloom can be truly spectacular. It seemed appropriate that Japanese school and fiscal years generally begin on April 1st (calendar years are otherwise followed).
As pretty as peak blossom is, I believe it is really the fleeting, transient nature of cherry blossoms that capture the heart of many Japanese. Sceneries of pink petals falling silently and blanketing the grounds can be even more stunning, and witnessing new lime-green leaves emerge can be greatly invigorating. It symbolizes impermanence and makes one appreciate the beauty even more.
FOOD, Food and more food
Eating Japanese food is my favorite form of meditation, and I don’t mean just sushi. There is no shortage of delectable, highly seasonal, regional cuisines throughout Japan. I enjoyed finding new vegetables and flavors as I travelled throughout the country.
Thanks to favorable USD exchange rate and years of deflation, it was easy to indulge without a steep price tag typical of big western cities. Japan’s seafood mecca Hokkaido offered the freshest sushi for under US$20. In Kyoto, I enjoyed elaborate multi-course kaiseki lunch, complete with a glass of Champaign, for ~US$25. Osaka was bustling with an abundance of cheap comfort food, where I treated myself to five giant creamy takoyaki (pieces of octopus cooked in ball-shaped dough) for 350 yen (~US$3). It took a grave effort not to overindulge, and I did not always win.
Despite the proliferation of food outlets, when it came to take out food, I was occasionally challenged to find edible chemical-free products. The focus on convenience had resulted in widespread use of preservatives and artificial colors, flavors, and fragrances. I was shocked to find chemicals in products from even bakeries, wagashi shops (Japanese sweets), and onigiri kiosks (rice balls). Convenience stores were the worst, where my options were often confined to bananas, cucumbers, plain salads, boiled eggs, and nuts.
This was a particular problem when I was on a week-long hiking trip in Kumano Kodo’s mountainous trails. After realizing the scarcity of food options on the trails (many hotels there do sell bento boxes), I started asking for plastic containers at hotel dinners and breakfasts so I can pack leftover rice. Though taking leftover food away is not common in Japan, my request was always warmly met, albeit initial confusion. Adding on some locally bought dry seasoned fish snacks, salted vegetables, dried nori seaweed and pickles, I learned to make my own bento box.
The best food experiences were actually had at home. In a country where you can find fresh sashimi-quality fish in local supermarkets, it was easy to prepare quick delicious and healthy meals. I did not need much more than fresh ingredients and intent for mindful food preparation.
TEMPLES AND SHRINES
I had the chance to visit some of the country’s most revered landmark temples and shrines. One common thread stood out: intricate ties to the nature.
Too frequently, it was hard to tell which was to be admired more: the elegant Ise Shrine or the surrounding 1,000-year old trees? Itsukushima Shrine (Hiroshima) and its immaculate torii gate, or the pristine water immersing the complex? The strikingly red layered pagoda at Kumano Nachi Taisha, or the 133-meter Nachi waterfall (tallest in Japan) crushing down in the background? The human structures elevated the divinity of the nature, and you couldn’t help but to feel humbled.
TREKKING KUMANO Kodo
Kumano Kodo is an expansive network of spiritual hiking trails in the depth of sparsely populated Japanese mountains, just south of Osaka. The trails link venerable Buddhist temples and Shinto shrines and have attracted pilgrims and spiritual hikers for over 1,000 years. It is one of the only two pilgrimage routes designated as UNESCO World Heritage sites in the world (source: http://www.japan-guide.com/e/e4952.html). With Kumano Hongu Taisha at its heart, six main mountain trails spread out like a star, each requiring multiple days to trek. This was my very first backpacking trip and was a truly worthy one.
To my surprise, ~80% of the people I met on the trails were enthusiastic Western hikers. I also encountered curious locals who were eager to find out why so many foreigners travelled all the way to be in the middle of nowhere, as they saw it.
The appeal was easy to understand. Hiking Kumano Kodo felt like the ultimate nature worship experience engraved in the traditional Japanese culture. Much of the trails were in remote mountains, engulfed in dense forest of sugi (Japanese cedar) trees ubiquitous in Japan. Skinny tall sugi trees shot straight up to the sky, with its short branches letting through beaming rays of sunlight. Occasional openings revealed breathtaking mountain views.
The trails I did were very green and pleasant. They were well marked with English signs and equally well maintained, largely consisting of stone steps and dirt paths. They were strenuous at times but not dangerous (NOTE: I did not get to hike the Omine Okugake route – the most challenging one linking Kumano Hongu Taisha to Yoshino mountain, used as the training grounds for shugendo mountain monks. This trail stretches nearly 100km and includes some areas closed off to women).
It was easy to be in complete isolation from humanity and experience pure tranquility. On my first day, I hiked for 3-4 hours without encountering another human being. The only sound came from uguisu (Japanese warbler) birds out in full force for the spring and gentle swaying of trees.
My trekking routes:
Given the widespread trail options and limited accommodation and public transportation availability, hiking Kumano Kodo required meticulous advance planning to determine desired trekking routes and lodging locations. I stayed at 5 places over 7 days and hiked 6-8 hours on most days. There was little civilization along most routes (not even a vending machine, a shocking phenomenon in Japan). The extensive bus network (albeit infrequent services) came in handy to bridge trails to towns, and there were many hot spring options available to reward you after long treks.
- Koyasan (高野山): half-day walk around the sacred mountaintop where the revered Japanese monk Kukai (Kobo Daishi) established Shingon Buddhism. I will discuss the area separately later but highly recommend stopping here to breathe in the ethereal air and stay overnight for shukubo (temple stay) experience, including special vegetarian dinner (shojin ryori) and morning prayer service. From here, I caught a Junrei bus (http://seichijunrei-bus.jp/index_us.html) to my trekking starting point on Nakahechi (below).
- Nakahechi (中辺路): 1.5-day trek from Kurisugawa (栗栖川) near Takahara Kumano Jinjya (高原熊野神社) to Kumano Hongu Taisha (熊野本宮大社). Stayed overnight at Iris Park hot spring along the way.
- Hongu Loop: 1-day trek on a circular route including Kumano Hongu Taisha (熊野本宮大社) and Yunomine Onsen (湯の峰温泉).
- Nachi (那智): 1-day trek from Koguchi (小口) to Nachi Taisha (那智大社). Took a bus from Kumano Hongu Taisha to Koguchi.
- Kohechi (小辺路): 1-day trek from Totsukawa Onsen (十津川温泉) to Kumano Hongu Taisha (熊野本宮大社). Took a local bus one way from Yunomine Onsen to Totsukawa Onsen.
- Iseji (伊勢路): half day trek from Maruyama Senmaida (丸山千枚田) to Kawase (川瀬). The only one I did that went mostly through idyllic countryside villages. Maruyama Senmaida is Japan’s largest terraced rice fields.
Note: I consider 6-8 hour hike to be a full day (steady moderate pace with short breaks) and 3-4 hour a half day.
Tips for planning: I heard great things about the region’s tourism bureau for helping international travelers plan their treks in English (go to http://www.kumano-travel.com/index.php). Transportation services were available to shuttle luggages between hotels. I opted to carry my own for my first backpacking experience (there was something about carrying everything on my back and discovering how little I actually needed!).
HOT SPRINGS
My favorite pastime activity in Japan. Outdoor hot springs (Rotenburo) can be a particularly rewarding end to hikes. Whenever my hotel didn’t have a hot spring, I was able to find one that was open to day guests (generally 500 – 1,000 yen; towels may be extra – I carried a small one around myself).
TOILET
I couldn’t complete writing about Japan without commenting on toilets. I know I am biased, but I do believe Japan has the cleanest public bathrooms. Aside from the myriads of functions on a standard toilet, I continue to be amazed at the abundance of public bathrooms and their cleanliness. This held true even in the rugged mountains on Kumano Kodo.
Highlight of Places Visited:
Hakodate (函館), Hokkaido – famed night view of Japan’s seafood mecca
Otaru (小樽), Hokkaido – canal running through a charming port city surrounded by snow capped mountains
Oga Peninsula (男鹿半島 入道崎), Akita – beautiful contrast of jagged blackish rocks against Sea of Japan
Takaoyama Jingoji (高尾山 神護寺), Kyoto – Tucked away in the mountains north of central Kyoto, this temple attracts large crowds during fall foliage season (~4,000 visitors daily at sessional peak). But my springtime visit was rewarded by vibrant young maple tree leaves engulfing the complex, without the crowds. The long hike up stone steps silenced my mind and prepared me to tune into the quiet sacred energy of the temple where Kukai lived for 14 years before entering Koyasan.
Kodaiji (高台寺), Kyoto– This hilltop temple’s seasonal nighttime illumination remains one of my favorite places in Kyoto. The surrounding areas get deserted after sunset, allowing Kodaiji to shine. Set among gorgeous temple grounds, the mirror-like reflection of illuminated trees in the central pond is captivating. You also get a glimpse of Kyoto city night view from the hilltop.
Koyasan (高野山), Wakayama – Considered one of the most sacred mountains in Japan and isolated from distractions of a city, Kukai had established this mountain as the headquarter of the Shingon sect of Buddhism in 816. Silence prevailed through the sacred town, which is filled with over 100 temples on a peculiarly flat expansive mountaintop.
The most unforgettable experience came from a 2km walk through Japan’s largest cemetery to Okunoin (奥之院), which housed Kukai Mausoleum. The path was lined with enormous Japanese cedar trees, over 200,000 tombstones of those wishing to be near Kukai after death (including famous monks and samurai warriors), and countless buddha statues and monuments. Kukai’s spirit is still believed to preside there in eternal meditation.
Kamikura Shrine (神倉神社), Shingu – Ran up the 538 stone steps in time for a spectacular sunrise view over Pacific Ocean.
Ise Jingu Shrine (伊勢神宮), Ise City – Impressive in its simplicity and harmony with nature, Ise Jingu is considered the country’s most important symbol of Japan’s Shinto religion. Originally built ~2,000 years ago before Buddhism was brought to the country, its buildings do not use a single nail and have trees gracefully interwoven to support themselves. The main Inner shrine is closed off to the public, but nearby miniatures reveal the elegance of metal-free architecture. Also fascinating is the fact that the shrine is purposely destroyed and rebuilt every 20 years, keeping with the religion’s belief of rebirth and eternal cycles.
Dotonbori (道頓堀), Osaka – overrun with tourists but nevertheless an excellent street food scene.
Itsukushima Shrine (厳島神社), Hiroshima – giant torii gate rising from the water.
Hiroshima Castle (広島城), Hiroshima – impressive looking, rebuilt in 1958 after the original perished along with the rest of the city in the 1945 atomic bombing. The nearby atomic bomb memorial museum was full of shocking displays of the human disaster.
Zentsuji (善通寺), Kagawa, Shikoku Island – birthplace of Kukai. It is the temple #75 of the 88-temple Buddhist pilgrimage around Shikoku island, the smallest of Japan’s four main islands. This was the very last place I visited in Japan.
Besides the fact that Kukai was born there, the complex stood out for the two massive trees, each over a thousand years old, as well as a surprising side tour of an underground tunnel. Underneath Kukai’s birthplace laid a narrow winding walking path in complete darkness, designed for deep reflection.
With no one else around, I took slow but sure steps under the guidance of nothing but my left hand tracing the wall and my faith. In the pitch black tunnel, I could not help but notice a striking resemblance to the current phase in my life, following nothing but my own intuition with no concrete plans for the future. A smile broke out naturally as I tuned into my heart. If you can manage to silence the mind from injecting fears, it was not a bad place to be at all.
Sincere thank you for reading my blog to the end! I hope you found it enjoyable and possibly inspiring especially if you have never been to Japan. Please feel free to ask any questions (email stiffestyogi@gmail.com). See you next season!
