Nelson, British Columbia

Nelson, British Columbia

I recently came back from spending dreamlike three months in the beautiful mountain town of Nelson in British Columbia, Canada. I am so lucky to have traveled there for work during this covid time. I had never heard of Nelson until a few years ago. But it is now one of my most favorite places on earth.

Nelson is a small Canadian town situated at the foot of a mountain by the beautiful Kootenay Lake in the southern interior of BC. It is a mecca for outdoor enthusiasts with wide ranging mountain and water activities. The town has a lively center on the flattish part around Baker Street. The residential area spans above town on the side of a mountain.

I arrived in Nelson in the spring when trees were starting to bloom. I left in mid-July as mountains were getting covered in wildflowers. The town is surrounded by mountains on all sides and lined by a pristine lake below. There are no bad views in Nelson.

My Nelson Experience

For such a small town, Nelson had almost all the amenities I would regularly want (except A/C, which I’ll talk about later). I found it to be convenient and easy to navigate as the town center is so small but full of quality places and filled with super friendly Nelsonites.

Baker Street is lined with great restaurants, cute boutique stores, coffee shops, spiritual stores, massage places, etc. I was shocked to even find an authentic sushi place (Kurama Sushi Japanese Restaurant) where I could talk to staff in Japanese. There was plenty of access to organic and natural food particularly at a local coop supermarket (Kootenay Co-op). Somehow local fruits and vegetables tasted better.

The absence of chains ensured room for local businesses to offer unique services. I spent money knowing it was going directly to local people. But if I needed things beyond mom and pop stores (e.g. a suitcase), there are Wal-Mart and other chains on the edge of the town.

I had the pleasure of walking down to town and hiking back up daily. The streets are sometimes so steep that there are stairs on the sidewalks. I enjoyed peeking into quaint houses and well-kept gardens during my otherwise strenuous walk home. It wasn’t until two weeks before the end of my trip I finally discovered the local buses (BC Transit) are actually quite convenient.

When I drove in Nelson on occasions, it was a bit like riding a rollercoaster. Sometimes the road in front of me would disappear with a steep drop off. And climbing back up, I always cheered for the car to make it. I also learned to appreciate different types of vehicles, which was a major consideration when going on Forest Service Road (FSR) to trailheads for hikes. They were often not maintained well and required high clearance AWD vehicles to drive on. I can’t imagine how people drive in the winter (snow tires required)!

All in all, based on my time there, I would say the quality of living is high!

Baker Street without the crowd in the morning

Hiking

I believe Nelson is a world class hiking destination. I took advantage of vast hiking options almost every weekend. I was so amazed that a short 15-minute drive from town can put you in pristine nature with no human to be seen.

I didn’t have to go far to walk in the nature, with Rail to Trail running right above town for miles. Just across the lake is Elephant Mountain, which offers a steady climb to Pulpit Rocks with a panoramic view of Nelson after the first 3.5km and could be stretched into a full day hike up and beyond.

Joining Kootenay Mountaineering Club was a great way to learn new trails and meet people. And there is a wealth of information on West Kootenay Hiking. I typically didn’t have to drive for more than an hour to get to trailheads, but the two far hikes I did (Fry Creek in May and Monica Meadows in July) were well worth the long drive.

Every hike was my favorite hike. Knowing I would eventually be leaving Nelson, I took in as much of the fresh mountain air, scent of trees and earth, and beautiful natural sceneries as I could. Two bear sightings (from the safety of a car) capped off my amazing nature experience!

The town of Kaslo with Prucell mountains in the distance

Unbelievably big tree on the Old Growth Trail by Kokanee Glacier Park

That’s a bear, standing up to check us out!

Monica Meadows – insanely gorgeous hike with high elevation start, snow-capped mountains and beautiful meadows.

Extreme Heat

My last two weeks in Nelson included a historic heat wave with temperature topping 105 degrees Fahrenheit (+40c). Even after the heat wave, the temperature remained high, frequently exceeding 90 degrees F, and it had pretty much stopped raining. None of the three AirBnB places I stayed in on this trip had A/C, which seemed to be a less common amenity (I heard it used to not get so warm).

Then my last week, the air suddenly got hazy. It was still relatively early in July, but the wildfires had already started earlier than normal.

Luckily, I was getting ready to leave and got in my hikes in time. I survived the heat by eating absurd amount of raw fruits and vegetables and taking ice cold bath throughout the day. And whenever I drove by the lake, I made sure to take a dip. But I had to wonder, why is it so warm?

I imagined actions by humans played a role. Around Nelson, I had witnessed the sad reality of logging, with parts of mountains stripped of trees. I guess I cannot expect normal to continue if we are altering the environment so much. I admit, I use paper products and contribute to this. But seeing what happens at the source has brought me new awareness of the effects of our behavior. I also saw how people lived closer to nature (e.g. growing food and composting food waste), which contrasted with my city life.

Clear smog line can be seen during a flight from Nelson to Vancouver (there were over 300 active wildfires in BC)

My Takeaway

Every action has a consequence, and I realized I need to do more for the environment as an empowered consumer. So I am making small changes when possible, such as buying less packaged products, using a drying rack to dry clothes (instead of electric dryer), reusing materials (vs. recycling), more local shopping (less Amazon), and planting more.

I know these are pretty insignificant on their own. But I’m hopeful they are joined by many other small changes, and together we can make an impact. So a place like Nelson can preserve its rich natural heritage and is available to visit.

Pisac (Sacred Valley), Peru

I had an opportunity to spend three weeks in an alpine Peruvian town Pisac for remote work in November 2019. I had been to Peru as a tourist before, and this time, I was looking to stay in one area for a more immersive experience.

Pisac proved to be an ideal living environment for me with its tranquil vibe, impressive mountains, and kind-hearted locals. Once I got used to the altitude (roughly three thousand meters), there was no shortage of activities in and around this vibrant ancient town. It did help a great deal to know some Spanish and have a strong digestive system.

I do not have a single highlight to share, as it was more like a continuing flow of amazing moments. Every day brought fresh eye-opening experience, whether it’s yoga with panoramic mountain view, discovering new amazing fruits, epic hikes, first time Ayahuasca, or genuine heart felt connection with an indigenous (Quechua Indians) family. Though I have come down from the highland, I still feel elevated from the richness of the experience.

Pisac

Pisac is located about 30km (~45min drive) from Cusco in Sacred Valley. Its clean narrow streets are a joy to explore with few cars as the highway is on the outskirt of the town. The town is filled with an endless stretch of souvenir stalls, produce market, and modern cafes and restaurants for tourists and local expat community. The expansive Sunday market is a big draw for tourists. There are hiking and ruins options right from town as well as within day trip reach. Historic Machu Picchu is an easy overnight trip away.

I stayed at Pisac Inca Guesthouse (https://www.pisacinca.com/), located on the edge of the town by cornfields. I was placed in their smaller original building, which featured a patio with a panoramic view of mountains. Practicing yoga on the patio in pure tranquility was a magical daily experience, and I could not help stop and feel the commanding presence of the mountains.

The guest house’s Quispe Huaman family went out of the way to make my stay enjoyable. My need for yogic diet (vegetarian, fresh, non-chemical food) was easily met, and I was in awe meal after meal I had to ask for a cooking class. Their seemingly simple dinner (often soup) carried a completely different flavor profile each night. I was also introduced to many new tropical fruits from the Peruvian jungles, and even familiar ones like mango tasted distinctively different!

I’ve never had so much fun teaching yoga – with the family that ran Pisac Inca Guest House in my broken Spanish!

Hike

I had some of my most memorable hikes ever on this trip. They inevitably involved altitude, and it was a good idea to wait a few days to acclimatize before embarking on any hikes.

Humantay Lake was well worth going out of the way for: roughly ~4 hour drive one way from Pisac (3 hours from Cusco). It was a popular destination and crowded with tourists but for a very good reason. Next time, I would stay there overnight to allow more time to hike around as there was much to be explored.

In contrast, Kinsa Cocha (my guest house called it the “hike with three lakes”) was only about 45-minute away by car and almost completely deserted. The expansive wilderness was magnificent, and flattish trails helped with altitude. As a bonus, I was able to visit a textile weaving place nearby that empowered locals and promoted the traditional Peruvian textile art (www.textilescusco.org).

Hike with three lakes – the picture does not do justice

Centro De Textiles Chahuaytire – *nonprofit textile weaving organization*

Machu Picchu engulfed in mysterious clouds (view from Wayna Picchu)

Ayahuasca (Plant Medicine)

I had ruled out Ayahuasca for some time as I didn’t see how it fit into my yoga and meditation practice. Daily practice goes well with my diligent nature and work ethics. Taking a drink to have a spiritual experience did not resonate with me.

But I had become more curious recently after hearing about amazing healing stories. Now I was in the medicine’s heartland, where it had been practiced as a sacred ritual by indigenous people for thousands of years. I felt open to trying.

Conveniently, there was a well-known establishment (Wasi Maha Templo; https://www.sacredvalleytribe.com/) just outside the town which provided an opportune setting. I was relieved to meet other first timers and felt the support the space provided as a safe container.

Instructions were given, and a ceremony began as the sun set. It felt like awhile before effects started taking hold, but once it did, it came very strong. I didn’t know what to expect as I had heard experiences vary widely. Mine was mostly a visual one, and I did not purge as much (not complaining!). I had set the intention to see my path to liberation and was shown a beautiful, extraordinarily colorful journey, which lacked any sort of specificity. Vivid images moved with live music of all sorts, including some Sanskrit chants to my delight.

I do not have any profound insights or specific healing from the ceremony. But overall my heart feels more expansive and relaxed, and I have noticed more gentleness and spaciousness in how I perceive things in general. I am back to my daily yoga and meditation practice but am grateful for the opportunity to be part of such an ancient ceremony in the heart of plant medicine land.

Titicaca Lake

Titicaca Lake was a perfect way to cap off this high elevation trip. Known as the highest navigable lake in the world at 3,800 meter, it was a good thing to make this the last stop after having plenty of time to get used to the altitude.

Puno is a large bustling city and acts as the gateway to Titicaca Lake. From Cusco, it is a full day away by bus (sightseeing or direct) or ultra luxury train (https://www.perurail.com/trains/perurail-titicaca/). While the idea of one of the world’s most beautiful train rides for US$280 was intriguing, I opted for a direct bus for better schedule (shorter at 7 hours and daily operation).

I went with Transzela bus (http://www.transzela.com) and got a front row seat on the second floor of a luxury double decker bus! Just ask for a seat with panoramic view. The bus ran parallel to the train tracks for the most part and rode through expansive wilderness and countless idyllic villages. It was easily one of my most beautiful bus journeys ever, all for 50 soles (under US$20)!

Uros Floating Island

Instead of staying in Puno, I had arranged to transfer to a floating island right in Titicaca Lake. Uros floating islands are made with dried Tortora reeds and inhabited by indigenous people Uru. I was told there were about 50 tiny islands closely anchored together.

Uros has a mixed reputation, largely as staged and a tourist trap. I understood this when I saw dozens of tourist ships from Puno taking over islands all at once in the morning. Kind of like when ports and towns are overrun by cruise ship guests, just on a much smaller scale.

But as I stayed put afterwards, I got to taste the tranquility and the harmonious way of living. Residents there were indeed dependent on tourist dollars, but I enjoyed the expansiveness of the lake, whispering sounds of totora and its fresh scent, and the ground swaying ever so gently.

I stayed with Lorenzo and Maria at Uros Winay Totora (http://www.uroswinaytotora.com/) for two nights. They shared the island with four other families, which formed a microunit of roughly 20 people within the greater Uros community. They happily showed me how they fished, made totora handicrafts, and even took me to nearby schools.

I was impressed they had minimum electricity from solar panels. Otherwise it was simple living in synch with the sun cycle, as there was not much to do at night other than taking in night view of Puno in the distance and stargazing.

On a day trip to Taquile Island, I saw how close we were to the sky when clouds emerged and formed a narrow band between themselves and the lake. It felt as if I was just under the world’s ceiling. But of course there was still much more space above the clouds. The space was always infinite; I just needed to shift my perceptions.

Titicaca Lake – the world’s highest navigatable lake (almost at clouds!)

Uros floating island made with totora reeds

Puno

Before catching a flight back to Lima, I had built in a brief stop in central Puno for souvenir shopping as I had read that alpaca was cheaper there than in Cusco. The central shopping area was compact, and it didn’t take me long to spot a neat alpaca store (Wasi Alpacas) which had select 50% off sale!

Afterthoughts

I hadn’t travelled for the sake of traveling in nearly 2 years after quenching my travel thirst during globe-trotting adventure in 2017. This trip reminded me of why I loved to travel: going beyond the familiar world for new perspectives, greater appreciation for things I already have, and fresh inspirations.

I may have come down from the altitudes, but I am vowing to myself to stay open to possibilities. There is such vast richness that exists beyond the rational mind, beyond the attention-grabbing perceptions. That is where I am inspired to be.

Thank you so much for reading! I know I have not been posting actively and am truly grateful for your readership.

Atemajac de Brizuela, Mexico

Ancient Mexican mountain town where traditional lifestyle still rules.

(La traducción al español sigue la versión en inglés)

I visited Atemajac de Brizuela in the Mexican state of Jalisco for about 10 days over the New Year holidays. I went for a wedding and came back with a life lesson: the joy of living simply in harmony with the natural surroundings, engulfed in a supportive community.

I drank milk from cows and ate fruits off of trees. Heritage and traditions were cherished. It was humbling to learn from things that must have been so common and ordinary back in the days. As I indulged in the freshest food and gazed at free roaming cattle, I had to pause to wonder the value of modern luxury.

Can a simple mountain life be more luxurious than a modern life in a big U.S. city? Technology and commercialism may have enhanced comfort and convenience and raised the “standard of living” in the U.S. But sourcing food directly from the earth and animals, reconnecting with the nature, and being welcomed into the close knit local community certainly felt more nourishing and joyful.

Peaceful streets of Atemajac de Brizuela

Flower garden at Hotel Boutique Montecruz

The Town

This was not the warm colorful Mexican town that I had imagined. Atemajac is nestled in the mountains, about 1.5-hour drive from Guadalajara, the second largest city in Mexico. Traditional earth tone houses filled the streets in harmony with the backdrop of mountains. The temperature swung widely between warm days and chilly nights because of the altitude.

While the town draws tourists on weekends, a sense of secluded tranquility permeated everywhere. The slanted stoned streets were better suited for walking and horses than cars. You can walk the whole town in an hour, though it could be easily stretched if you stopped to chat with the locals. Mountain trails were a short walk away.

Everyone seemed to know one another, and many were in fact related. I met several ex-US workers who had returned to the town and shared fruits of their labor with the community. Food was offered in abundance (not a good place to be on a diet!). The culture of sharing and serving went a long way to keep the community in tact.

Tapalpa – bigger and more commercial yet still peaceful

Traditional Way of Life

The magic of the place was in the traditional way of living, Mexican style. Life was integrated into the natural surroundings and revolved around family gatherings. I enjoyed getting milk from healthy cows, warm eggs from free range chickens, and abundant avocados and fruits off of trees. I munched on fresh cheese and learned to crack walnuts and make tortillas. There was something very rewarding about getting your hands dirty to source food directly from the earth and animals.

You can live as slow as you like, especially if you are on vacation. Social activities started early with a morning ritual where we gathered around cows to make the popular local drink called pajarete. The traditional pajarete formula consisted of sprinkles of chocolate powder, sugar, and instant coffee, which were soaked in pure alcohol (to kill bacteria) and mixed with warm milk poured straight from cows. It tasted just like Kalua milk but better!

Being face to face with a cow with its baby nearby waiting for his turn to get fed brought me new awareness of what I was taking and at what cost, which was so much more than just a price tag. It was a good lesson learned to respect animals and the natural environment that we take so much from for granted.

There was no bar in town due to regulations designed to discourage drinking for the sake of drinking. That is not to say people didn’t drink. After all, Jalisco was where tequila and Mariachi were born. There was plenty of tequila in social settings, and you did not need a reason to get together with family and friends.

Pajarete (chocolate/sugar powder and instant coffee marinated in alcohol then mixed with fresh milk) – way better than Kalua milk!

Learning to make tortillas from the pros

Family gathering hosted by one of the most generous men I have ever met

Grilling a whole goat and a chicken; no part was wasted

Picking a chirimoya fruit – so nourishing and delicious!

Traditional Mexican Wedding

The wedding was full of admirable traditions and music, and the whole town seemed to have come out to celebrate.

The morning of the wedding was perhaps the most unusual part. The day started with family and friends gathering outside the bride’s house at 6am, complete with a live mariachi band. After serenading the bride, the groom gave his future wife one last bouquet of flower as a boyfriend and a girlfriend. The crowd eventually moved inside the house where the bride performed the ritual of collecting coins on the stairs as a symbol of being entrusted with family finance (coins were later blessed by a priest at the wedding ceremony). Then there was more music, singing and dancing as the bride served fruit punch drinks to guests.

Another tradition I admired was their combined bachelor and bachelorette party the evening before. The surprise party brought together family and friends for collective celebration of the unity with games, speeches, food and drinks. The absence of commercialism and pretentiousness made the event authentic and truly enjoyable for all.

I was the most impressed by how casual and welcoming the bride and groom seemed to be from preparation to the wedding ceremony, and how they and their family kept serving guests graciously. Anyone and everyone was welcomed, whether formally invited or not. Guests kept arriving at the wedding reception to the point the hall had to keep on adding tables. It was celebration of love and community inclusiveness at its best.

Agave farm at a tequila distillery in neighboring Sayula where alcohol for the wedding was picked up

Mariachi band playing outside the bride’s house as she got ready for the wedding ceremony

Groom riding horses around town before heading to the wedding ceremony

Historic church where the wedding ceremony took place

Afterthought

Being back in a U.S. city, streets are filled with enticing stores and restaurants that tempt you to spend money and consume unnecessary things mindlessly, expending wasteful energy and harming the environment along the way. But being nurtured by the earth and experiencing a simple yet rich life has made commercialism much less tempting and even distasteful for me. I am grateful to have found a different kind of luxury in Atemajac, one that’s much more profound and a lot cheaper.

Spanish Translation (traducido por Google Translate)

Antigua ciudad de montaña mexicana donde el estilo de vida tradicional todavía gobierna.

Visité Atemajac de Brizuela en el estado mexicano de Jalisco durante aproximadamente 10 días durante las vacaciones de Año Nuevo. Fui a una boda y regresé con una lección de vida: la alegría de vivir simplemente en armonía con el entorno natural, envuelto en una comunidad de apoyo.

Bebí leche de vacas y comí frutas de los árboles. Herencia y tradiciones fueron apreciadas. Era humilde aprender de cosas que deben haber sido tan comunes y comunes en los días. Mientras me entregaba a la comida más fresca y contemplaba el ganado vagabundo libre, tuve que detenerme a pensar en el valor del lujo moderno.

¿Puede una simple vida de montaña ser más lujosa que una vida moderna en una gran ciudad de EE. UU.? La tecnología y el comercio pueden haber mejorado la comodidad y la conveniencia y elevado el “nivel de vida” en los Estados Unidos. Sin embargo, el abastecimiento de alimentos directamente de la tierra y los animales, reconectarse con la naturaleza y ser bienvenidos en una comunidad local unida se sintió más nutritiva y alegre .

La ciudad

Esta no era la cálida y colorida ciudad mexicana que había imaginado. Atemajac se encuentra en las montañas, a aproximadamente 1,5 horas en coche de Guadalajara, la segunda ciudad más grande de México. Las casas tradicionales de tonos tierra llenaban las calles en armonía con el telón de fondo de las montañas. La temperatura oscilaba ampliamente entre los días cálidos y las noches frías debido a la altitud.

Mientras que la ciudad atrae a los turistas los fines de semana, una sensación de tranquilidad aislada impregnó todo. Las calles inclinadas de piedra eran más adecuadas para caminar y caballos que coches. Puedes caminar por toda la ciudad en una hora, aunque podría alargarse fácilmente si te detienes a conversar con los lugareños. Los senderos de montaña estaban a pocos pasos de distancia.

Todos parecían conocerse, y muchos de hecho estaban relacionados. Conocí a varios ex trabajadores estadounidenses que habían regresado a la ciudad y compartido los frutos de su trabajo con la comunidad. La comida se ofreció en abundancia (¡no es un buen lugar para estar a dieta!). La cultura de compartir y servir fue un largo camino para mantener a la comunidad en contacto.

Forma de vida tradicional

La magia del lugar estaba en la forma de vida tradicional, estilo mexicano. La vida se integró al entorno natural y giró en torno a las reuniones familiares. Disfruté de obtener leche de vacas sanas, huevos calientes de gallinas camperas y abundantes aguacates y frutos de los árboles. Comí queso fresco y aprendí a partir nueces y hacer tortillas. Había algo muy gratificante en ensuciarse las manos para obtener comida directamente de la tierra y los animales.

Puedes vivir tan lento como quieras, especialmente si estás de vacaciones. Las actividades sociales comenzaron temprano con un ritual de la mañana en el que nos reunimos alrededor de las vacas para preparar la popular bebida local llamada pajarete. La fórmula tradicional de pajarete consistía en chispas de chocolate en polvo, azúcar y café instantáneo, que se remojaban en alcohol puro (para matar bacterias) y se mezclaban con leche tibia vertida directamente de las vacas. ¡Sabía igual que la leche de Kalua, pero mejor!

Estar cara a cara con una vaca con su bebé cerca esperando su turno para alimentarme me dio una nueva conciencia de lo que estaba tomando ya qué costo, que era mucho más que solo una etiqueta de precio. Fue una buena lección aprendida para respetar a los animales y el medio ambiente natural del que tanto damos por sentado.

No había barra en la ciudad debido a regulaciones diseñadas para desalentar el consumo de alcohol por el simple hecho de beber. Eso no quiere decir que la gente no bebió. Después de todo, en Jalisco nacieron el tequila y el mariachi. Había mucho tequila en las redes sociales, y no necesitabas un motivo para reunirte con familiares y amigos.

Boda mexicana tradicional

La boda estuvo llena de admirables tradiciones y música, y todo el pueblo parecía haber salido a celebrar.

La mañana de la boda fue quizás la parte más inusual. El día comenzó con la reunión de familiares y amigos fuera de la casa de la novia a las 6 a.m., con una banda de mariachis en vivo. Después de serenatar a la novia, el novio le dio a su futura esposa un último ramo de flores como novio y novia. La muchedumbre finalmente se movió dentro de la casa donde la novia realizó el ritual de recoger monedas en las escaleras como un símbolo de ser confiado con finanzas familiares (las monedas más tarde fueron bendecidas por un sacerdote en la ceremonia de la boda). Luego hubo más música, canto y baile mientras la novia servía bebidas de ponche de frutas a los invitados.

Otra tradición que admiré fue su despedida de soltero combinada y despedida de soltera la noche anterior. La fiesta sorpresa reunió a familiares y amigos para la celebración colectiva de la unidad con juegos, discursos, comida y bebidas. La ausencia de comercialismo y pretenciosidad hizo que el evento fuera auténtico y realmente agradable para todos.

Lo que más me impresionó fue lo informal y acogedor que parecían ser los novios desde la preparación hasta la ceremonia de la boda, y cómo ellos y su familia siguieron atendiendo a los invitados amablemente. Cualquiera y todos fueron bienvenidos, ya sea formalmente invitados o no. Los invitados seguían llegando a la recepción de la boda hasta el punto en que el salón tenía que seguir añadiendo mesas. Fue la celebración del amor y la inclusión de la comunidad en su mejor momento.

Idea tardía

Al estar de regreso en una ciudad de los Estados Unidos, las calles están llenas de tiendas y restaurantes tentadores que lo tientan a gastar dinero y a consumir cosas innecesarias sin pensar, gastando energía derrochadora y dañando el medio ambiente en el camino. Pero ser nutrido por la tierra y experimentar una vida simple pero rica ha hecho que el comercialismo sea mucho menos tentador e incluso desagradable para mí. Estoy agradecido de haber encontrado un tipo diferente de lujo en Atemajac, uno que es mucho más profundo y mucho más barato.

Mt. Kilimanjaro Trek

Hiking up to Africa’s Ceiling

At 5,895 meters / 19,341 feet, Mt. Kilimanjaro is the highest mountain in Africa and the highest free-standing mountain in the world. It was certainly the highest mountain I had ever attempted at climbing, by far.

I had heard that anyone could make it to the summit with sufficient acclimation time (i.e. no special tools or skills needed). As I was already staying in Mombasa, Kenya, which happened to be a bus ride away from the mountain in Tanzania, I thought hiking up Kilimanjaro would be a cool way to cap off my one-year break and gain a final dose of inspiration before returning to the reality of working life.

The actual hiking experience was daunting. My body did not take altitude too well, and it wasn’t long before I started suffering from nausea and head pressure during my 7-day trek.

But six weeks of living in Kenya before the hike had taught me to persevere by focusing on the present and not worry about how I was going to make it in the future. In fact, the thought of how far we were from the summit and how much longer it would take to reach it became the number one enemy. Looking back, turning that thinking off was the key to my battle. I kept on walking and eventually made it to the summit. It was as simple as that.

Since much of the hike felt to me like slow death, I came away with a sense of rebirth and a new level of appreciation for health & wellness and the simple ability to take in a full breath. The majestic sceneries are still vivid in my memory like no other and serve as a reminder that we are part of the much greater universe.

View of Mawenzi Peak from Banafu Base Camp

Preparation

This was no ordinary trek. There are multiple route options offering various levels of challenges, sceneries, lengths and costs. Typical hike takes anywhere from 5 to 9 days. You can’t it alone. In addition to a guide, you need multiple porters for your luggage, food, water, tent, and etc. Standard tours cover all your basic needs such as cooking and putting up tents daily. Lastly, there is no shower on the mountain (I was grateful to get a bucket of warm water twice daily).

I chose a 7-day Lemosho route, which has gained much popularity given its varying scenic trails and good acclimatization time. I joined a budget tour organized by Moshi-based Chief’s Tours (https://chiefstours.com), which delivered excellent service and value thanks to their lean infrastructure. Our group consisted of three tall men plus myself. We were supported by 16 staffs who guided us, carried our stuff and prepared food and shelter for 7 days. In addition to sleeping tents, we got a dining tent large enough to fit a table and chairs for 4. I could not have been happier with Chief’s Tours’s quality of service.

Given all the supporting manpower required, the hike was not cheap. But the real shock was in the national park fee, which came out to US$995 for the trek. This was more than half of my total tour price. In addition, tipping for each staff was rather obligatory and not insignificant.

The Trek

Mt. Kilimanjaro felt more like a mountain range with multiple peaks and valleys rather than a free standing mountain. I do believe any reasonably healthy and fit person can do it, though altitude impact makes the trek challenging, to say the least. While I did not take any altitude pills, even those that did seem to be significantly impacted.

View of Mt. Kilimanjaro from Moshi, Tanzania

Day 1 (Elevation: 1,830m/6,000ft → 2,650m/8,700ft)

We spent much of the first day organizing, renting gears, driving and registering, followed by a short 6km/4 mile trek. We walked through a lush tropical forest at a leisurely pace and were passed by countless porters along the way. But the highlight was a family of gracious monkeys with fluffy white tails we stumbled upon.

Our tents had already been set up by the time we reached the campsite, and we were welcomed by a plentiful balanced meal, which included soup, fish and avocado. The temperature dropped throughout the evening and it was pretty chilly by the time we went to bed. I felt grateful for the quality gear I had rented from Chief’s Tours, including a heavy duty sleeping bag and a thick padding.

Countless porters getting ready to begin the trek

Day 2 (Elevation: 2,650m/8,700ft → 3,850m/12,600ft)

At 16km/10miles, this was our longest trekking day other than the summit day. Tropical forest gave way to alpine forest with breathtaking views. We overlapped with a group of 32 hikers from a UK-based tour company (with well over 100 porters!), and we all marched in a line at a steady pace.

As we walked up into oncoming clouds, the temperature dropped precipitously. Though much of the afternoon hike was on a flatland, walking began to feel more strenuous. The altitude impact showed up in shortness of breath and swollen body parts as I reached the campsite (Shira II Camp). We were welcomed by panoramic mystic view at the camp.

Assistant guide discussing mountain flora

Our chef (back) making fried chicken! Did you have to carry all that?

Day 3: (Elevation: 3,850m/12,600ft → 4,000m/13,000ft)

Sunny morning was followed by cold rain, and we began to spot semi-permanent snow on the ground. Vegetation diminished, but alpine trees and jagged rocks created equally impressive sceneries.

We reached the elevation of 4,650m/15,250ft during the 6-hour walk though we ended the day around the same elevation, an important process of acclimatization. Nevertheless, my altitude sickness became more significant with nausea, headaches, and head pressures. My guide kindly began carrying my daypack, which ended up remaining on his back until the last day. Dinnertime got quieter.

During the trek, we passed a blind person trekking with assistance from multiple guides. The sight was a humbling reminder to be grateful for the healthy body despite the altitude sickness. A few days later, we found out this person made it to the summit the same day we did.

The summit comes into sight on the sunny morning of Day 3

Less green, more rocks, equally enjoyable views

Those porters are as impressive as those rocks!

Day 4: (Elevation: 4,000m/13,000ft → 4,050m/13,250ft)

The morning trek started with nearly vertical Barranco Wall. This was the only place we needed to engage all four limbs to climb. A long queue formed, allowing us to admire porters skillfully navigate narrow passages among rocks with all their loads on head, back, and/or arms.

Though the remaining trail was much more reasonable, we continued to proceed at a crawling pace, which was all I could manage anyway. Lifeforms further diminished. But the view grew more captivating with clouds far below and stunning Mawenzi peak soaring in spectacular display.

Summit getting closer, but we have to go around to hike up from a different angle

Approaching the long queue at Barranco Wall

Porters navigating the ridge skillfully with impressive balance

Me barely carrying myself up.. and I didn’t even have my daypack on

The rest was not as bad (except for the altitude)

Day 5: (Elevation: 4,050m/13,250ft → 4,700m/15,350ft)

A short 3-hour walk to the Base Camp in the morning felt like intense physical labor. My body protested that a human being should not be up so high without an oxygen tank.

This was when my ego kicked in to help me go on. I considered myself fit and healthy, and there was no reason to fall short of the summit. The general success rate on 7-day Lemosho was 80%-85%. Surely I belonged to the successful group, right? Besides, I had announced my Kili hike on Facebook. Not making it was not an option.

I met my ego’s limit once I reached the Barafu base camp and suffered from an onslaught of nausea and head pressure at 4,700m/15,350ft. While my guides assured me the symptoms were normal, the experience was just not enjoyable. The plan was to rest for the afternoon, have early dinner at 6pm, nap, and wake up at 11pm for tea and biscuits before hiking up 6-7 hours to the Uhuru summit. This was not sounding very appealing at the moment.

The scenery from the base camp was already insanely gorgeous. What was the point of expected suffering when I can sleep in and join my team to descend in the morning? Wasn’t vomiting a good enough reason to stop? Who cares about satisfying ego. I needed something bigger than myself.

I found the answer in my new Kenyan family. Prior to coming to Mt. Kilimanjaro, I had spent six weeks volunteering for Community Based Organizations (CBO) in Mombasa, Kenya, where I helped disadvantaged female groups gain skills and build business (click here for my Kenyan blog post). I started fundraising for them in connection with the Kili hike and had already collected some donations. The thought of letting those women down was impossible.

One of the handicapped ladies at Tunaweza CBO (disabled women group collectively making and selling goods and advocating for their rights in Kenya) had become interested in climbing Kilimanjaro after watching my commitment to training and growing excitement. It broke my heart to tell her it was going to cost impossible sum of money as well as time for her to hike on clutches.

I still wish for her to see Kilimanjaro one day and possibly explore the lower area, but that day was not today. On the other hand, I was only hours away from making it to the summit. I had all four limbs functioning properly and was lucky enough to have the resource to pay for the trek. Everything else seemed like an excuse my mind had produced. So I began my final push to the summit.

If it wasn’t for the altitude, this would have been as easy as it looks

Got to the Base Camp, but Uhuru summit still looks pretty far.. Do I really need to get there?

Neighboring Mawenzi peak. Can’t I just stay here and enjoy this view?

Day 6: Summit Day (Elevation: 4,700m/15,350ft → summit @ 5,895m/19,340ft → descent to 3,090m/10,150ft)

The most physically and psychologically challenging day of the trek.

The exhaustion, anxiety and altitude sickness made it nearly impossible to nap in the evening before the 11pm tea & biscuits time. The goal was to depart at midnight to climb ~1,200m/5,200ft and reach the summit shortly after the sunrise (before it got too hot given the proximity to the sun). After silently sipping on tea and forcing down a few biscuits, we set off exactly at midnight.

Challenging was an understatement, and being sleep deprived, altitude sick, and not having a proper meal did not help. But what made the trek particularly brutal was not knowing how far up we needed to go. All we saw in the dark above was a line of flickering headlights, which kept moving higher at an alarmingly steep angle.

My guide’s cheering shouts went straight to my throbbing head. My attempt at any star gazing for much needed amusement was hindered by the glare from my own headlamp. I asked for breaks repeatedly and slowed down the team to a crawl.

It came down to a fierce battle over the mind. The key was to focus only on the present. All I needed to do was to keep stepping one foot in front of the other. That, anyone with properly functioning legs could do. That, however, my beloved ladies on clutches at Tunaweza CBO could not do.

The one time I made the effort to turn down my headlamp, I spotted a bright shooting star speeding across the starlit sky that was more magical than any planetarium I had been to. As the sun began to rise above the neighboring Mawenzi peak, the majestic Kilimanjaro revealed its shape in the glorious twilight. We were almost at Stellar Point, the final place before Uhuru peak.

I was in momentary disbelief when I realized we were not going to take any break to view the sunrise or at Stellar Point. I was running on empty stomach, but the last 45-minute trail stretched out almost flat in front of us. So we continued on.

It took us full 7 hours to reach the summit from Barafu Camp, and it felt like a miracle that all four of us made it. The summit itself was no more than a crowded picture spot (we spent no more than 10 minutes), but the scenery all around in the bright daylight seemed like an outer world floating high above the clouds. I was overcome with an overwhelming sense of gratitude.

As we began descending rapidly, I paid more attention to the magnificent views. It took me 2+ hours to return to the Base Camp, and after some rest, we descended for another 3 hours so our bodies can recover better at lower altitude.

In all, we hiked up 5km/3miles (1.2km/3,990ft elevation gain) and down 13km/8miles (2.8km/9,190ft elevation loss) on this day without proper sleep and food. No wonder I was completely wiped!

Uhuru Summit.. How did I manage to get there??

Pretty glaciers floating high above the clouds

Rapid descent back towards the oxygen land

Day 7 (3,090m/10,150ft → 1,680m/5,500ft)

After a restful night back on the oxygen-filled land, I felt as if life had returned to my body. I was riding high on the successful summit when a singing (and tipping) ceremony broke out after breakfast.

There was no need to go around the mountain for acclimatization, and an easy 2.5-hour descent brought us to the park exit. We were back in town by mid-day. I could not have been happier when our hotel let us check in early to much anticipated shower and a real bed!

My big toes were exceptions to the revival. Each step during the descent triggered a crushing sensation. I had assumed it was my big toes bumping up against shoes on the descent that caused the pain and made my toenails turn purple in just a day. It took me a few days to realize that the unusual level of pain was from frostbites as numbness persisted.

Fortunately there was no infection, and my toes have largely regained senses. Only the purple pedicure remains as of this writing as a reminder that this was not just a dream.

My incredible team, enjoying feeling alive again!

Was it all worth it?

Absolutely yes.

In addition to the surreal sceneries, experiencing that we are limitless was priceless. The trek also underscored the power of staying present and how each small step can accumulate into a monumental achievement. In fact, taking one step at a time was the only way to get to the summit.

Above all, I have a new appreciation for each full breath that fills me with life. How good does it feel to be able to take a full breath in?

Tips:

Wear double socks on the summit night to prevent frostbites!
Consider paying for a portable toilet as bathrooms at campgrounds can be far and difficult to find in the dark, not to mention their strong odor can add to nausea from altitude sickness (I vomited once after using the bathroom).
If you have long hair, try getting it braided. In addition to all the complements you would get (especially from the locals), you save yourself from having to deal with dirty tangled hair.

Links: The Kenyan foundations remain open for donations (click here for my Kenyan blog post). Even US$10 (1,000 Kenyan shilling) makes a big difference. We sincerely appreciate any support you can provide.

Tunaweza donation site: https://www.gofundme.com/tunaweza-organization (support Kenyan women with disabilities build a stronger foundation for income generation activities and advocating for their rights)
Wa-Kesho donation site: https://www.gofundme.com/wakesho-organization (support a Kenyan vocational school provide teenage girls with income generating skills)

Thank you for reading my blog! I am grateful for the many words of encouragement I have received over the past year.

Mombasa, Kenya

Living in a Kenyan village

I spent six weeks volunteering in villages outside the coastal town of Mombasa in Kenya from September through mid-October. This was easily the best and the worst trip of my life, with the good far outweighing the bad. Intense and vivid, humbling and enriching, it was a travel experience like no other.

Important disclaimer: My experience would likely have been drastically different if I were a tourist or lived in Nairobi or even the Mombasa town itself.

Instead, I lived with a host family and worked with some of the most disadvantaged population groups in rural Kenya. I witnessed how people hustled to survive and have fun at the same time. As tough as they were, Kenyans knew how to laugh abundantly and had boundless love to give, making them one impressive resilient group. My experience was all about encounters with such people.

Souvenir shop by Fort Jesus (Mombasa). Where are the tourists??

Girls soccer game at a charity event promoting peace (Kisimani, Mombasa)

Giraffe feeding session at Haller Park (Mombasa)

Hey there, how old are you?? (Haller Park, Mombasa)

Living Conditions

Challenging at best. Comfort was not part of the local living experience.

My first accommodation, which was a 2-bedroom volunteer house in a bustling village called Bamburi, did not have running water. The scheduled government supply of water came in trickles (4x a week for a few hours). Unable to even wash my clothes, I moved out after 2 days.

I switched to a host family in the rural Shanzu, populated with street stalls and traditional single story houses. My three-generation host family consisted of six adults and two children, who occupied four bedrooms, and had additional rooms for volunteers. The rooms were lined along L-shaped open sky corridor where cooking and washing (dishes and clothes) took place. Thankfully there was an overhead shower and a western toilet.

Despite the improved housing situation, I struggled with the environment of fume-filled air, streets saturated by litter, smoke from burned trash, and humidity rising above 90% too frequently (temperature was in 20-25 degrees Celsius / 70-80 degrees Fahrenheit). There was a constant stream of noise starting with Islamic prayer at 5am, and blackout was common. And without the modern amenities, everything took longer from washing clothes to making tea. Life was not easy.

In spite of all the discomfort, I felt torn apart to leave the place in the end. My host family was extremely welcoming. It did concern me that everyone seemed to be looking for a job except the parents (father had a vegetable stand and mother took care of the household). The dire employment situation was blamed on the presidential election, which had brought much uncertainty and dampened the important tourism sector. Nevertheless, there was no shortage of laughter in the family, and “Hakuna matata” (Don’t worry) was their motto.

The sense of joy winning over desperation extended well beyond the family. The village was filled with the most cheerful, fun loving, and affectionate people, united by a strong sense of community. They looked after each other and capitalized on any opportunities to have fun. They constantly complemented one another (“You look smart!” – really means you look nice, not intelligent). Kenya made you tough and soft at the same time.

I loved the people so much that I ended up shortening my sightseeing itinerary in order to spend a few extra days in Mombasa with the people that had newly become my family.

Outside the host family’s traditional house and their garden

Localizing

This was an extensive process involving getting my bearings, learning to navigate chaotic transportation system, studying Swahili (though many spoke some English), and familiarizing with local customs. It took good ten days before I started feeling comfortable and another ten days before I started behaving like a local (e.g. demanding changes) and really having fun.

Pickpocketing seemed highly common, though I was fortunate to not experience it myself. I received countless warnings to guard my phone better by locals. I made a habit of wearing my iPhone and cash inside my shirts. Otherwise it generally felt safe, though I did avoid going out at night as there were no street lights.

Initially, I was bewildered by all the stars from adults and children and being called China or Mzungu (white person.. really?). On my first weekend, I ventured out to a local public beach with a young Kenyan girl who was the caretaker from the first volunteer house. The beach was packed with rowdy preteens and teens, who, upon spotting me, called me China, mocked Chinese accents, and mimicked Kung Fu movements. Unexpectedly, I got a bitter taste of what it was like to get blatantly discriminated.

I quickly realized that the trick was to understand the local people and culture. After learning that locals commonly greeted strangers, I studied basic Swahili and began greeting every person who looked my way on the street in Swahili, proactively and preemptively and complete with a smile and hand gesture, in order to force respectful response. This proved not only effective but also fascinating cultural experiment. The payoff was huge.

It was mesmerizing to watch harsh stern faces transform into the biggest smiles. I also started aggressively correcting everyone that called me China, also in Swahili. The result: laughters and profound apologies. Groups of motorbike drivers and stall ladies began greeting me “Japan” affectionately, and some even wanted to learn proper greetings in Japanese. The final step was adjusting my looks by wearing popular kitange wraps and getting my hair braided, which the locals loved (not only fun but also effective in dealing with 90% humidity).

Once I got my basic bearings, I started jogging to a nearby beach and joined a local gym that was tucked away on a secure corporate campus of Bamburi Cement Company. For $10/month, I enjoyed unlimited personal training by the gym manager, who helped me prepare to hike Mt. Kilimanjaro (my next post!). But more importantly, the gym exposed me to the working class population and added another dimension to my experience.

Within a few weeks, I went from feeling utterly unwelcomed and discriminated against to feeling like a rock star. It was a painful exercise but worthwhile to become part of the community, where I found nothing but good-natured people with much love to give.

Birthday party at home for a five-year-old girl

Morning run to the beach with my host family

Food

I primarily ate breakfast and dinner at home with my host family and lunch at local restaurants (~$2/meal) in the areas I volunteered. Kenyan cuisine tended to be simple with minimal spices and centered on carbs. This was a sharp contrast to the Japanese diet I grew up on, which prized variety and balance. But that was not the only reason why I struggled with food.

I quickly realized I was the only one who ate proper lunch as I witnessed a group of students share a plate of fried potatoes at Wa-Kesho vocational school. It was even worse at Tunaweza disabled women’s group where many ladies had mobility challenges in addition to economic issues. Occasionally, someone would go fetch bananas or bread for everyone. A few times, they generously brought in pots, a fire pit, and ingredients to cook local specialty dishes for me to try. But otherwise, there was no lunch.

At home, my host family sourced ingredients primarily from their own garden and bought little from the outside. Meals typically consisted of carb (ugali – cornmeal dough, rice, or chapati – Indian flatbread) and cooked vegetables or beans, which I enjoyed. But their refrigerator was rarely plugged in, and staples like dairy was entirely missing. I frequently supplemented meals by doing my own grocery shopping.

My favorite dish was Wali wa Nazi coconut rice, which they called “special rice”. I came to really appreciate it after witnessing how much manual labor went in to prepare it from shelled rice. It was indeed very special.

Mixing cornmeal with water to create ugali in the “kitchen”

Commuting

This was where I had some of the biggest culture shocks. The most common way to get around was shared vans (called matatus) which drove on fixed routes. Though regulated, they liked speed (hang on for frequent off-roading), music, and filling themselves to max capacity. It was not uncommon to find giant TV screens playing loud music videos (regardless of the time of the day) behind driver’s seat, blocking you from seeing outside. This was a problem when you had to knock to announce your stop.

During one ride, a baby boy was handed to me by a random stranger who sat next to me, without saying a word (she held a newborn herself). I was even more shocked when the mother later moved to the back for a better seat, again without a word. Amazingly, the baby looked around to find no mother and then fell asleep anyway.. Evidently, Kenyan resilience starts early.

Busy street filled with cars, matatus and tuk tuks

Volunteering

I wanted more than a standard tourist experience, and volunteering seemed like a good way to immerse in the local culture and give back.

After much research and contemplation, I chose “Women Empowerment” program offered by a New Zealand-based organization (Love Volunteers) based on cost, mission (helping women build sustainable lives), transparency (disclosed how volunteer money was spent for many programs), and flight availability (US$750 for Chicago – Nairobi round trip!).

Through the local volunteer manager, I was introduced to two Community Based Organizations (CBOs), both of which aimed at helping women gain sustainable income for themselves and provide for their kids. Neither of them had a website and would have been otherwise nearly impossible to find. I could not be more grateful to have come across those two incredible organizations and their extraordinary people, which I am delighted to share with you below.

1) Working with Women with Disabilities (Tunaweza Women CBO)

Formed in 2000, Tunaweza (means “Yes we can”) pursued two objectives: a) to advocate for the rights of women with disabilities, and b) collectively run a business to generate sustainable income to provide for themselves.

Tunaweza was comprised of fifteen members with disabilities and mothers of children with disabilities. Almost all the members were single mothers, and many were devoted Christian. They could not take the common transportation method (shared vans), nor could they go anywhere that was not on the ground floor. Employment opportunities were scarce, and begging was viewed as the only other realistic alternative. But they made me feel like family right away and looked after my need to localize (they insisted I get my hair braided).

Business activities were done on a small scale and included making and selling baskets, bags, accessories, and reusable sanitary napkins. But when I arrived, they were preparing for a commercial launch of all-natural peanut butter products with a new high capacity equipment underway (donated from a government affiliated fund). I ended up spending the majority of my volunteer time marketing this product.

Despite all their limitations and small group size, the impact they have had on the society was far reaching and life changing for many. They were responsible for initiating disability movements in Mombasa. In 2016, they got women with disabilities to be elected into Mombasa County government for the first time. They even managed to get medical exam fees waived for persons with disabilities so those people can obtain government cards necessary to receive disability benefits (previously the prohibitive ~US$15 fees prevented many from going for necessary exams and hence receiving benefits).

I was in awe when my colleague Lucy turned my shameful lack of awareness into an opportunity to climb stairs for the first time since a devastating accident 9 years ago (I took her and another colleague to a coffeehouse when we were in town for business, unaware it had three steps at the entrance). Supported by two men, Lucy’s trembling feet slowly advanced with grave efforts. Each step was a triumph of human determination, which culminated into a glorious victor over mind and body. Our subsequent lunch at the Swahili style Jahazi Coffee House was the most memorable meal of my trip.

Two extraordinary sisters of Tunaweza: Charity (left) and Lucy (right) (at Jahazi Coffeehouse)

Lucy climbing stairs for the first time in nine years

My farewell party at Tunaweza. So sad to leave all this!

2) Vocational School for Teenage Girls (Wa-Kesho)

My initial assignment training teenage girls at a vocational school CBO called Wa-Kesho (means “of tomorrow”). They took in at-risk girls from the lowest class, even when their families could not afford to pay school fees. Skills taught included tailoring, dressmaking, soap making, cake baking, and typing.

On my first day, as I arrived at a crowded cluttered room tucked away on a church property, I was met by cheerful chants of “Welcome!” and “I love you” by the students. Though my skill set was not the best match there (the only thing I could teach was typing) and I shifted my focus to Tunaweza, I enjoyed returning there once a week. The flood of greetings repeated each visit, mixed with the addition of “I missed you!”.

Wa-Kesho was started in 2006 to help empower young girls amid proliferation of prostitution and drug and substance abuse among them. Since the inception, 420 girls have undergone training as dressmakers, and 75% of them are now earning livings using those skills.

Today, the school is run by two members, Jane and Kamau, who had remained through much hardship while all the others had left (there were ~20 members initially). They manage the school full time but have not paid themselves from the school’s fund, which is collected from families and donors. To support students who can’t pay school fees as well as their own families, the two sell select high quality products such as virgin coconut oil, amaranth, and kikoy woven cotton, which they make using equipment donated from government agencies. Thanks to their extraordinary efforts, all 20 graduates last year managed to find employment or started their own businesses.

Adorable students at Wa-Kesho, showing excitement for a simple gift of oranges!

Wa-Kesho members: Kamau (left) and Jane (right). They are two of the most impressive people I have ever met.

If you would like to donate to either organization, please follow the links below. We thank you for your generosity.

1) Tunaweza Women:

https://www.gofundme.com/tunaweza-organization (works better for credit cards)

https://secure.changa.co.ke/myweb/share/15034 (Kenyan platform; lower fees)

2) Wa-Kesho vocational school:

https://www.gofundme.com/wakesho-organization (works better for credit cards)

https://secure.changa.co.ke/myweb/share/13988 (Kenyan platform; lower fees)

Diani Beach Escape

To be honest, I didn’t expect much in a way of beach experience from Kenya, especially after the horrifying public beach encounter described earlier. Diani Beach proved me wrong.

Located ~35km south of Mombasa, Diani Beach offered a long stretch of mesmerizing white sand beach with translucent water. Despite being populated by resort hotels, it felt laid back and unspoiled. It quickly became my favorite weekend escape.

Getting there from Mombasa seemed daunting at first but turned out to be manageable: a free public ferry to get out of Mombasa town, a matatu shared van, then a tuk tuk. In all, it cost less than 200 kWh (US$2) for the 1.5-hour journey (vs. +$100 by taxi).

Stilts Treehouse (http://www.stiltsdianibeach.com) offered a refreshing escape from the city at under US$30/night, with access to a nearby boutique hotel’s pool and facilities right on the nicest part of the beach.

Traditional houses on Wasini Island (south of Diani Beach)

Wasini Island’s elevated walkway (with tide flowing back in)

Generous hospitality by a family in Shimoni (south of Diani Beach)

Nairobi

I realized how unique my Mombasa experience was when I spent a few days in Nairobi at the end of the trip. Nairobi was a sprawling modern city and nothing like Mombasa. The central business district was clear of litters, and their matatus felt more like regular buses (with just really loud music). And no, you did not greet strangers on the street.

Undoubtedly Nairobi would have been much easier to break into. But after getting accustomed to the Mombasa lifestyle, I missed the friendly community feel of Mombasa. But I was relieved to find familiar warmth and playfulness underneath indifferent masks whenever I chatted up with the locals.

Due to the presidential re-election when I was there, the city felt quiet and was without its notorious traffic. I happened to drive through an election rally in the city center and Kibera, one of the largest slums in Africa where streets were burned down just days before, but thankfully did not come across any violence. Now that the president elect has been re-announced, I pray for peace and unity to return.

Kibera – one of the largest slums in Africa

Time for mud bath! (Elephant sanctuary, Nairobi)

Safari and Maasai Village

Safari was the perfect way to cap off my stay in East Africa. I was delighted with a 3-day camping safari trip to Maasai Mara, organized by Axis Africa Safari (http://axisafricasafaris.com). I never tired of close-up encounters with lions, elephants, giraffes, zebras, wildebeests, and countless other animals. I had to hold down temptations to get out of the van to pet the animals.

The trip came with an optional visit to a nearby Maasai village and an opportunity to mingle with the famed Massai tribe. It provided a rare glimpse into their long preserved traditions and lifestyle, centered on cattle herding. Wearing visible red wraps to fend off animals and fused with warrior spirit, they demonstrated how to survive on natural resources and talked of losing members to wild animals. I deeply respect their choice to remain intertwined with nature and entirely disassociate from modern convenience.

Close encounter with an elephant family (Maasai Mara)

One of the many napping lions in Maasai Mara

Fixed safari campground (near Maasai Mara)

Post Kenya

During the past two weeks since I have been back in the U.S., I have become keenly aware of the lack of community feel where my home was supposed to be. I kept sensing more separation than inclusiveness. But now I have confidence that it is entirely possible to connect with strangers with small efforts if you are open to it.

As I transition back to the western world, I intend to make it a point never to forget to have fun. After all, what is the point if you stop smiling?

What I miss the most about Kenya – those giant smiles!

Resources:

Tunaweza Women donation links: https://www.gofundme.com/tunaweza-organization (works better for credit card); https://secure.changa.co.ke/myweb/share/15034 (Kenyan platform; lower fees)

Wa-Kesho vocational school donation links: https://www.gofundme.com/wakesho-organization (works better for credit card); https://secure.changa.co.ke/myweb/share/13988 (Kenyan platform; lower fees)

Love Volunteers: https://www.lovevolunteers.org

Canadian Rockies

Continuing the tour of the world’s most beautiful places.

I have travelled to remote corners of the world to experience the best the nature has to offer. In my last trip earlier this year, I witnessed the grand mountains of New Zealand, Australia, the Himalayas, and Japan, all still vivid in my memory. Yet, the Canadian Rockies taught me I could have the same captivating experience right here in North America.

The Canadian Rockies had it all – mountain ranges that stretched out as far as you could see, sparkly lakes that seemed to have been illuminated from within, stunningly green valleys, sturdy canyons withstanding gushing water, elegant waterfalls, translucent rivers, vast glaciers, and the list goes on. To top it off, an unusual amount of fresh snowfall in Jasper made snow-capped mountains look even more divine, while the melting snow added more power to mighty rivers.

All this was available via a quick flight from the U.S. and a short drive from Calgary. Furthermore, the favorable Canadian dollar exchange rate (vs. USD) helped, and thanks to the 150^th anniversary, all Park Canada’s locations were free for the entire year.

I spent eight days in mid-June driving through the Canadian Rockies and out southwest to Whistler/Vancouver with a friend. We hiked daily through all weather types, which constantly changed.

The trip reminded me of New Zealand in many ways, but the jagged mountain peaks with dramatic exposed rocks gave a very different feel, and rich wildlife made the experience more entertaining. Though crowds abounded at popular viewpoints, it was easy to find secluded gorgeous lookouts (just be wary of bears). When we did come back to civilization, we were met by fulfilling culinary experience in cozy eateries focused on fresh sustainable ingredients and served by friendly locals.

The following is a photographic highlight of my trip day by day. Note that all the pictures came from iPhone 7 and are strictly unfiltered.

Happy 150^th Birthday, and thank you for the soul satisfying experience Canada!

Day 1 (Drive from Calgary to Lake Louise)

We stretched out the 2-hour drive into a full day by stopping in Canmore (cute small town with warm cozy vibe) and Banff (resort town, felt a bit more touristy and commercial) along the way.

Calgary was a convenient launching pad for Canadian Rockies.

On the way to Lake Louise. It got prettier very quickly!

Ran into elk family lounging around, showing off impressive antlers.

Arrived at the famed Lake Louise. No words were sufficient to describe the magic of this place.

Day 2 (Lake Louise and Plain of Six Glaciers trek)

Friendly little creature (pika) admiring the snow reflection on Lake Louise.

Partly snow-covered trail to the far off teahouse by Plain of Six Glaciers from Lake Louise . It was not as scary as it looked. (The trail to the closer teahouse was closed due to the heavy snowfall the day before.)

Victoria Glacier and the winter wonderland (Plain of Six Glaciers). The weather suddenly cleared up!

Returned to find Lake Louise in a completely different color in the sunny daylight. This doesn’t even look real!

The lake’s color seemed to change by the minute. Every shade came with its own allure.

Do stop by Fairmont hotel for patio dining overlooking Lake Louise. It is worth it. (No we did not stay here – opted to spend 2 nights at Deer Lodge, only a 5-minute walk for a fraction of Fairmont price)

Day 3 (Drive from Lake Louise to Columbia Icefield)

Bow Lake, our first roadside stop on Icefields Parkway. It was all icy indeed!

Peyto Lake. The whole lake could be seen from a crowded viewpoint right off the parking lot, but this quiet spot got us a much closer look and was worth the steep 30-minute trek (downhill one way, uphill going back)

Mistaya Canyon, with an impressive torrent of water gushing through.

Random stop along Icefields Parkway. It was too pretty not to pause.

3-hour (9km) trek to Sunset Lookout by Norman Creek. The snow-covered path in the last stretch added a fun twist.

Spectacular reward at Sunset Lookout! This made the journey that much more special, and we had it all to ourselves.

Back to scenic drive along Icefields Parkway.

Glacier at Columbia Icefield, where we stayed overnight.

Day 4 (Drive from Columbia Icefield to Jasper/Maligne Lake, ending in Tete Jaune west of Jasper)

Easy breezy river walk (Beauty Creek). Nice and flat for a change.

Pleasant walk around Athabasca Falls, away from the crowded viewpoints.

Gentle walk on 2.7km Moose Lake Loop by Maligne Lake

Need a ride? (This was a little too close for comfort..)

Drive from Jasper (Kimchi House was a great dinner spot with surprisingly good Korean food) to Tete Jaune, British Columbia. It stayed light well into the night, stretching out the day.

Day 5 (Bike Tete Jaune and Trek Kinney Lake/Mount Robson)

Tete Janue Lodge (http://www.tetejaunelodge.com). Enjoyed 2 nights here in a tranquil setting, located near popular Mount Robson. Free bike rental was a nice bonus, and the restaurant is highly recommended even if you are not staying here.

Bike ride through idyllic countryside around Tete Jaune.

Easy riverside walk on Berg Lake Trail (3 hours RT to Kinney Lake).

Berg Lake Trail turned very green towards Kinney Lake.

Kinney Lake (Mount Robson Provincial Park of British Columbia). I swear, this is unfiltered!

Day 6 (Drive from Tete Jaune to Sun Peaks near Kamloops)

This tiny town of Valemount had an awesome spiritual cafe called The Gathering Tree Eatery & Gift Shop. When we stopped for breakfast, they were giving away free baked goods to help support BC Association of Community Response Networks spread awareness of adult abuse.

A quick hike up by Valemount before a long drive.

Day 7 (Drive from Sun Peaks to Whistler / Squamish)

Beautiful landscape as we drove southwest towards Whistler.

Many scenic spots to break up the drive.

Hiking in Whistler. Couldn’t get enough of those green maple trees!

Balcony view from Squamish Highlands B&B (http://www.squamish-highlandsbnb.com), located in-between Whistler and Vancouver. This hilltop B&B was one of my favorite overnight stays!

Day 8 (Vancouver)

Japan

Re-discoverying my home country

This is my home country that I left at the age of 15 when I relocated to the U.S. with my family. I had spent little time in Japan as an adult, and it was about time I explored my own country.

Though I had returned to Japan periodically, I admit it was a real culture shock this time after having spent nearly a month immersed in spirituality in holy Rishikesh, India (click here for the post) and sitting in silent meditation for 10 days in Vipassana earlier this year (click here for the post). The conventional “luxury” paled in comparison to the wealth of divinity, and materialism now seemed just silly. My hometown Tokyo felt overwhelming with overt consumerism and relentless sensory attacks. There was not going to be any fitting in.

Fortunately, even though spirituality may be largely lost in the modern Japanese culture, Japan is blessed with rich nature given its mountainous island geography (~80% mountains). The ancient Shinto religion native to Japan is closely associated with nature worship. It was in the mountains and remote villages I experienced the best of Japan. It also helped that I was in Japan during the prime spring sakura (cherry blossom) and shinryoku (young green leaves) season.

Fresh maple leaves bursting of spring energy

TRIP Overview & Logistics

After spending two weeks in Tokyo, I ventured out on a 3-week domestic trip in mid-April with a particular focus on experiencing Japan’s rich nature and religious heritage.

I travelled from Hokkaido in the north to Hiroshima in the southwest, stopping in Akita, Mt. Fuji, Kyoto, Koyasan, Kumano Kodo mountain trails, Ise, Osaka, Hiroshima, Okayama and Kagawa (Shikoku island).

I used a coveted JR rail pass (60,000 yen, or ~US$510 at the time) made available to international travelers, which was a bargain considering a one-way bullet train ticket from Tokyo to Hokkaido alone costs over 20,000 yen (note: you have to buy a voucher overseas prior to entering Japan). The flexibility of hopping onto bullet trains without reservations was an added bonus (unless you are on reserved-seating only trains).

Japanese bullet trains are fast, clean, and highly reliable. I considered train time to be an integral part of sightseeing, offering some of the prettiest views of the countryside, mountains, and ocean. My favorite ride was from Tokyo to Hokkaido, now linked by bullet trains, which included views of snow-capped mountains on one side and ocean on the other after emerging from a 25-minute ride through Seikan tunnel (23km/15 miles undersea). The view of the majestic Mt. Fuji from a bullet train between Tokyo and Shizuoka never gets old.

I stayed at ryokan (Japanese style hotels) and minshuku (bed & breakfast) places with hot springs wherever I could. I have grown to like traditional barely furnished tatami rooms for simplicity and subtle scent and feel of tatami straw under bare feet, not to mention efficiency with space (I can practice yoga when futon mattress is rolled away). While ryokan stays frequently include elaborate in-room dinners, I needed to opt out this time to avoid overindulging during my extended trip.

Here is a highlight of my Japan experiences and destinations.

Sakura Cherry Blossoms

I landed in Tokyo on March 31, hoping to catch the end of a cherry blossom season. Cherry blossoms typically bloom for only about a week, including 2-3 days of peak bloom, and the timing is subject to whims of weather and is highly localized. This year, thanks to the mild winter and a cool start to the spring, the blooming season had been delayed, and the tiny buds were just beginning to open in Tokyo when I arrived.

During the first week of April, the city grew noticeably prettier by the day as petals began to pop open everywhere, invoking anticipation of the coming spring season. After a few days, the entire city seemed to be dressed in pale pink and was overtaken by large crowds that gathered under the blooming trees to celebrate. While there are numerous famous cherry blossom spots throughout the city, the sight of even a single tree in full bloom can be truly spectacular. It seemed appropriate that Japanese school and fiscal years generally begin on April 1^st (calendar years are otherwise followed).

As pretty as peak blossom is, I believe it is really the fleeting, transient nature of cherry blossoms that capture the heart of many Japanese. Sceneries of pink petals falling silently and blanketing the grounds can be even more stunning, and witnessing new lime-green leaves emerge can be greatly invigorating. It symbolizes impermanence and makes one appreciate the beauty even more.

Shinjuku Gyoen park, Tokyo – One incredible tree!

Chidorigafuchi park, Tokyo – Tokyo Tower in the distance

Chidorigafuchi park, Tokyo – Special night illumination near Imperial Palace

Sakura petal-covered street after peak blossom

FOOD, Food and more food

Eating Japanese food is my favorite form of meditation, and I don’t mean just sushi. There is no shortage of delectable, highly seasonal, regional cuisines throughout Japan. I enjoyed finding new vegetables and flavors as I travelled throughout the country.

Thanks to favorable USD exchange rate and years of deflation, it was easy to indulge without a steep price tag typical of big western cities. Japan’s seafood mecca Hokkaido offered the freshest sushi for under US$20. In Kyoto, I enjoyed elaborate multi-course kaiseki lunch, complete with a glass of Champaign, for ~US$25. Osaka was bustling with an abundance of cheap comfort food, where I treated myself to five giant creamy takoyaki (pieces of octopus cooked in ball-shaped dough) for 350 yen (~US$3). It took a grave effort not to overindulge, and I did not always win.

Despite the proliferation of food outlets, when it came to take out food, I was occasionally challenged to find edible chemical-free products. The focus on convenience had resulted in widespread use of preservatives and artificial colors, flavors, and fragrances. I was shocked to find chemicals in products from even bakeries, wagashi shops (Japanese sweets), and onigiri kiosks (rice balls). Convenience stores were the worst, where my options were often confined to bananas, cucumbers, plain salads, boiled eggs, and nuts.

This was a particular problem when I was on a week-long hiking trip in Kumano Kodo’s mountainous trails. After realizing the scarcity of food options on the trails (many hotels there do sell bento boxes), I started asking for plastic containers at hotel dinners and breakfasts so I can pack leftover rice. Though taking leftover food away is not common in Japan, my request was always warmly met, albeit initial confusion. Adding on some locally bought dry seasoned fish snacks, salted vegetables, dried nori seaweed and pickles, I learned to make my own bento box.

The best food experiences were actually had at home. In a country where you can find fresh sashimi-quality fish in local supermarkets, it was easy to prepare quick delicious and healthy meals. I did not need much more than fresh ingredients and intent for mindful food preparation.

My favorite Japanese meal at home – grilled gindara (cod fish), yuba (tofu skin) salad, mushroom miso soup, rice, and pickles, cooked in under 20 minutes (excluding rice cooker time).

TEMPLES AND SHRINES

I had the chance to visit some of the country’s most revered landmark temples and shrines. One common thread stood out: intricate ties to the nature.

Too frequently, it was hard to tell which was to be admired more: the elegant Ise Shrine or the surrounding 1,000-year old trees? Itsukushima Shrine (Hiroshima) and its immaculate torii gate, or the pristine water immersing the complex? The strikingly red layered pagoda at Kumano Nachi Taisha, or the 133-meter Nachi waterfall (tallest in Japan) crushing down in the background? The human structures elevated the divinity of the nature, and you couldn’t help but to feel humbled.

Ise Jingu, the most sacred Shinto shrine

TREKKING KUMANO Kodo

Kumano Kodo is an expansive network of spiritual hiking trails in the depth of sparsely populated Japanese mountains, just south of Osaka. The trails link venerable Buddhist temples and Shinto shrines and have attracted pilgrims and spiritual hikers for over 1,000 years. It is one of the only two pilgrimage routes designated as UNESCO World Heritage sites in the world (source: http://www.japan-guide.com/e/e4952.html). With Kumano Hongu Taisha at its heart, six main mountain trails spread out like a star, each requiring multiple days to trek. This was my very first backpacking trip and was a truly worthy one.

To my surprise, ~80% of the people I met on the trails were enthusiastic Western hikers. I also encountered curious locals who were eager to find out why so many foreigners travelled all the way to be in the middle of nowhere, as they saw it.

The appeal was easy to understand. Hiking Kumano Kodo felt like the ultimate nature worship experience engraved in the traditional Japanese culture. Much of the trails were in remote mountains, engulfed in dense forest of sugi (Japanese cedar) trees ubiquitous in Japan. Skinny tall sugi trees shot straight up to the sky, with its short branches letting through beaming rays of sunlight. Occasional openings revealed breathtaking mountain views.

The trails I did were very green and pleasant. They were well marked with English signs and equally well maintained, largely consisting of stone steps and dirt paths. They were strenuous at times but not dangerous (NOTE: I did not get to hike the Omine Okugake route – the most challenging one linking Kumano Hongu Taisha to Yoshino mountain, used as the training grounds for shugendo mountain monks. This trail stretches nearly 100km and includes some areas closed off to women).

It was easy to be in complete isolation from humanity and experience pure tranquility. On my first day, I hiked for 3-4 hours without encountering another human being. The only sound came from uguisu (Japanese warbler) birds out in full force for the spring and gentle swaying of trees.

My trekking routes:

Given the widespread trail options and limited accommodation and public transportation availability, hiking Kumano Kodo required meticulous advance planning to determine desired trekking routes and lodging locations. I stayed at 5 places over 7 days and hiked 6-8 hours on most days. There was little civilization along most routes (not even a vending machine, a shocking phenomenon in Japan). The extensive bus network (albeit infrequent services) came in handy to bridge trails to towns, and there were many hot spring options available to reward you after long treks.

Koyasan (高野山): half-day walk around the sacred mountaintop where the revered Japanese monk Kukai (Kobo Daishi) established Shingon Buddhism. I will discuss the area separately later but highly recommend stopping here to breathe in the ethereal air and stay overnight for shukubo (temple stay) experience, including special vegetarian dinner (shojin ryori) and morning prayer service. From here, I caught a Junrei bus (http://seichijunrei-bus.jp/index_us.html) to my trekking starting point on Nakahechi (below).
Nakahechi (中辺路): 1.5-day trek from Kurisugawa (栗栖川) near Takahara Kumano Jinjya (高原熊野神社) to Kumano Hongu Taisha (熊野本宮大社). Stayed overnight at Iris Park hot spring along the way.
Hongu Loop: 1-day trek on a circular route including Kumano Hongu Taisha (熊野本宮大社) and Yunomine Onsen (湯の峰温泉).
Nachi (那智): 1-day trek from Koguchi (小口) to Nachi Taisha (那智大社). Took a bus from Kumano Hongu Taisha to Koguchi.
Kohechi (小辺路): 1-day trek from Totsukawa Onsen (十津川温泉) to Kumano Hongu Taisha (熊野本宮大社). Took a local bus one way from Yunomine Onsen to Totsukawa Onsen.
Iseji (伊勢路): half day trek from Maruyama Senmaida (丸山千枚田) to Kawase (川瀬). The only one I did that went mostly through idyllic countryside villages. Maruyama Senmaida is Japan’s largest terraced rice fields.

Note: I consider 6-8 hour hike to be a full day (steady moderate pace with short breaks) and 3-4 hour a half day.

Tips for planning: I heard great things about the region’s tourism bureau for helping international travelers plan their treks in English (go to http://www.kumano-travel.com/index.php). Transportation services were available to shuttle luggages between hotels. I opted to carry my own for my first backpacking experience (there was something about carrying everything on my back and discovering how little I actually needed!).

Even occasional walks on paved streets were pleasant

Rain brought mystical atmosphere (and I got to test out my waterproof gear)

“Not Kumanokodo” signs were indeed very helpful

Maruyama Senmaida – the largest terraced rice fields in Japan

HOT SPRINGS

My favorite pastime activity in Japan. Outdoor hot springs (Rotenburo) can be a particularly rewarding end to hikes. Whenever my hotel didn’t have a hot spring, I was able to find one that was open to day guests (generally 500 – 1,000 yen; towels may be extra – I carried a small one around myself).

Rotenburo (outdoor hot spring) at Iruka Onsen Hotel Seiryuso, Mie Prefecture

TOILET

I couldn’t complete writing about Japan without commenting on toilets. I know I am biased, but I do believe Japan has the cleanest public bathrooms. Aside from the myriads of functions on a standard toilet, I continue to be amazed at the abundance of public bathrooms and their cleanliness. This held true even in the rugged mountains on Kumano Kodo.

Public bathroom on Kumano Kodo trail, adorned with flowers

Highlight of Places Visited:

Hakodate (函館), Hokkaido – famed night view of Japan’s seafood mecca

Otaru (小樽), Hokkaido – canal running through a charming port city surrounded by snow capped mountains

Oga Peninsula (男鹿半島入道崎), Akita – beautiful contrast of jagged blackish rocks against Sea of Japan

Takaoyama Jingoji (高尾山神護寺), Kyoto – Tucked away in the mountains north of central Kyoto, this temple attracts large crowds during fall foliage season (~4,000 visitors daily at sessional peak). But my springtime visit was rewarded by vibrant young maple tree leaves engulfing the complex, without the crowds. The long hike up stone steps silenced my mind and prepared me to tune into the quiet sacred energy of the temple where Kukai lived for 14 years before entering Koyasan.

Kodaiji (高台寺), Kyoto– This hilltop temple’s seasonal nighttime illumination remains one of my favorite places in Kyoto. The surrounding areas get deserted after sunset, allowing Kodaiji to shine. Set among gorgeous temple grounds, the mirror-like reflection of illuminated trees in the central pond is captivating. You also get a glimpse of Kyoto city night view from the hilltop.

Koyasan (高野山), Wakayama – Considered one of the most sacred mountains in Japan and isolated from distractions of a city, Kukai had established this mountain as the headquarter of the Shingon sect of Buddhism in 816. Silence prevailed through the sacred town, which is filled with over 100 temples on a peculiarly flat expansive mountaintop.

The most unforgettable experience came from a 2km walk through Japan’s largest cemetery to Okunoin (奥之院), which housed Kukai Mausoleum. The path was lined with enormous Japanese cedar trees, over 200,000 tombstones of those wishing to be near Kukai after death (including famous monks and samurai warriors), and countless buddha statues and monuments. Kukai’s spirit is still believed to preside there in eternal meditation.

Kongobuji, Koyasan – Japan’s largest rock garden

Kongobuji, Koyasan – enclosed rock garden

Koyasan – Over 100 temples populating the flat mountaintop

Okunoin, Koyasan – massive graveyard with immense trees leading up to Kukai Mausoleum

Okunoin, Koyasan – countless buddha statues on the ~2km walking path

Okunoin, Koyasan – purification area near the entrance to Kukai Mausoleum

Kamikura Shrine (神倉神社), Shingu – Ran up the 538 stone steps in time for a spectacular sunrise view over Pacific Ocean.

Beware, stairs leading up to the shrine are pretty steep and not recommended for anyone with fear of heights

Ise Jingu Shrine (伊勢神宮), Ise City – Impressive in its simplicity and harmony with nature, Ise Jingu is considered the country’s most important symbol of Japan’s Shinto religion. Originally built ~2,000 years ago before Buddhism was brought to the country, its buildings do not use a single nail and have trees gracefully interwoven to support themselves. The main Inner shrine is closed off to the public, but nearby miniatures reveal the elegance of metal-free architecture. Also fascinating is the fact that the shrine is purposely destroyed and rebuilt every 20 years, keeping with the religion’s belief of rebirth and eternal cycles.

Dotonbori (道頓堀), Osaka – overrun with tourists but nevertheless an excellent street food scene.

Itsukushima Shrine (厳島神社), Hiroshima – giant torii gate rising from the water.

Hiroshima Castle (広島城), Hiroshima – impressive looking, rebuilt in 1958 after the original perished along with the rest of the city in the 1945 atomic bombing. The nearby atomic bomb memorial museum was full of shocking displays of the human disaster.

Zentsuji (善通寺), Kagawa, Shikoku Island – birthplace of Kukai. It is the temple #75 of the 88-temple Buddhist pilgrimage around Shikoku island, the smallest of Japan’s four main islands. This was the very last place I visited in Japan.

Besides the fact that Kukai was born there, the complex stood out for the two massive trees, each over a thousand years old, as well as a surprising side tour of an underground tunnel. Underneath Kukai’s birthplace laid a narrow winding walking path in complete darkness, designed for deep reflection.

With no one else around, I took slow but sure steps under the guidance of nothing but my left hand tracing the wall and my faith. In the pitch black tunnel, I could not help but notice a striking resemblance to the current phase in my life, following nothing but my own intuition with no concrete plans for the future. A smile broke out naturally as I tuned into my heart. If you can manage to silence the mind from injecting fears, it was not a bad place to be at all.

Sincere thank you for reading my blog to the end! I hope you found it enjoyable and possibly inspiring especially if you have never been to Japan. Please feel free to ask any questions (email stiffestyogi@gmail.com). See you next season!

Rishikesh, India

The ultimate yoga destination

My trip to India started with a sprint through the expansive Delhi airport to make a 1.5-hour connection that included obtaining visa on arrival (available for Japanese passport holders), clearing immigration and customs, picking up and rechecking a suitecase, lining up for domestic security check, and finally making my way through what seemed like an eternally-stretched path to the gate.

Luckily I got help from several random strangers, including an airport officer who sprinted with me part of the way after telling him I was a good runner, and a gate agent who did not give up on me even though all the shuttle buses to the plane had long left.

It was a miracle that I made the flight. Little did I know my entire India trip would be magical.

Patna waterfall, my favorite spot in Rishikesh

Trip Overview

When I booked this India trip several months ago, my plan was to take things easy and practice some yoga, specifically the physical aspect of yoga. I decided to spend 3 weeks in Rishikesh in March as it seemed to be the yoga and ashram Mecca of the world. I also tacked on a few extra days for brief sightseeing in Jaipur, Agra, and Delhi. I signed up for a 11-day Kriya Yoga training at a well-known ashram in advance but arrived with an otherwise open itinerary.

I went with an open mind, but what I got was well beyond my imagination. Yoga there was much more of a spiritual exercise and a way of life. I still went through with the yoga training program but came away with so much more. Every day brought fresh experiences and surprises, challenging and reshaping my perspectives multiple times over. It was intense, sweet, and exhilarating, all at the same time.

Devaprayag, where two rivers meet to form the Ganges river

Rishikesh

Rishikesh was a place like no other. Located in Northern India by the Himalayas, the whole town was infused with spiritual energy, attracting countless travelers from all over the world. There were numerous ashrams to choose from and no shortage of yoga classes in abundant variety. Everyone there seemed to be on some sort of a spiritual path. I went alone and hardly spent any time by myself as I kept on meeting one divine spirit after another.

The surrounding mountains and wild nature heightened the spirituality, and at its core was the divine Ganga river, which seemed to make everything flow ever so naturally. Thanks to its relatively cool climate (compared to the rest of India), fresh vegetables and fruits could be enjoyed at least in March.

Rishikesh came with a dose of first time experiences for me, inevitable part of breaking out of an old life pattern especially while traveling.

There were unique spiritual opportunities like Satsang (spiritual Q&A), ashram stays, Ganga bath, and sunset Ganga Aarti.

The most memorable events came spontaneously – being submerged in all colors during holi (a Hindu spring festival where people smudge colors all over you), cave meditation, Indian classical music concerts, astrology reading, visiting a mountain yogi, hitchhiking, and fasting.

Yet, the best part of my stay was seemingly random encounters ending in genuine connections. I have never met so many beautiful people of all ages and backgrounds in such a short period.

Even a cow couldn’t escape colors during holi festivities

Monkey contemplating near Vashistha Cave

Ashram Stay

I stayed at 3 different ashrams over 3 weeks. Ashram was a perfect place to learn to let go of the old comfort and immerse in spirituality in a supportive community. It helped clarify what I really needed to be happy, and my definition of basic necessity kept evolving.

I had two pairs of outfits to wear for the 11 days of Kriya yoga training (required white loose top and bottom) and hand washed clothes daily. There were occasional cold showers when water heater didn’t work (minor inconvenience). When there was no towel, I used a T-shirt to dry myself (it worked). Fresh meals were available without having to consult a menu (you eat what they have). No makeup was warranted, and heels were out of question. Life became simple.

Ashrams I stayed:

Osho Gangadham (4 nights) – a gorgeous Osho ashram on Ganga. It is a small secluded campus providing a peaceful setting, and a stay includes Osho meditation classes (it was my first time and very unique). Also a great place to mingle with other spiritual travelers at a communal dining table.
Paramarth Niketan (2 weeks) – a large well-known ashram where I took Kriya Yoga training. It is expansive and runs various events and programs. Its daily evening Ganga Aarti draws a lot of tourists (and cameras).
Ved Niketan (2 nights) – a quiet traditional ashram with a pretty courtyard. I stayed in their most expensive room, which cost 400 rupees a night (~$6). They did not take reservations and I was lucky to get a room.

Paramarth Niketan’s sunset Ganga Aarti ceremony

Offering to the divine Mother Ganga at Aarti

International Yoga Festival and Kriya Yoga Training at Paramarth Niketan

I attended the last day of a week-long international yoga festival and a 11-day Kriya yoga training course at Paramarth Niketan.

The yoga festival was a major attraction for the town and drew well-known yoga teachers from all over the world. From the extensive class schedule, I was happy to try a sunrise music meditation class on Ganga (Nada Yoga) taught by a lovely vocalist Anandra George and two Kundalini yoga classes (second one was by mistake as it was listed as “power yoga”, not “authentic power” as was intended, but I ended up loving the class).

I was new to Kriya Yoga. The training included breathing exercises, gentle poses and mantra chanting in addition to Kriyas. Kriyas consisted of a series of unique mind exercises designed to clear chakras and help invoke Kundalini. For instance, you may be scanning and naming each chakra and moving head along in one round of breath while chanting, with eyes open (this threw me off the most), and repeating it up to 59 times. It was easy to lose track and run out of breath if your mind digressed.

Famous yogis gathered at Paramarth Niketan’s annual International Yoga Fest’s closing ceremony

My kriya yoga uniform – all white for minimal distraction

Mooji Satsang

One of the first things I heard of upon arriving in Rishikesh was satsang (lecture-style spiritual Q&A), and Mooji’s in particular. I didn’t know what a satsang was and had never heard of Mooji before. Rishikesh is a Satsang heaven, drawing many prominent spiritual leaders from worldwide. I attended satsang by several speakers, but Mooji stood out. He happened to be there the month I was.

At first I was taken aback by the spectacle at a Mooji satsang: a long line of mostly foreigners outside the gate, security check, a shoe line, then a massive hall where people kept pouring in. It was a large production with numerous volunteers directing the crowd. I was impressed how orderly the place was run and how silent the hall remained despite the crowd (a friend counted ~2,000 in one session).

Mooji volunteers added a special touch. Dressed in immaculate white outfit, they wore the warmest and most graceful expressions, even when telling me my purse was too big and needed to be checked. It was particularly touching to see those saint-like people use a hand gesture I have come to love: softly placing a right hand over heart, conveying a silent message along with eyes. Heaven must be filled with people like them.

It was easy to understand Mooji’s appeal. He has the most compassionate eyes and calmest demeanor, and speaks from his heart so gently in the most natural state. He discussed how your mind likes to define who you are and confine you to your self image. Your mind takes you anywhere but present. You are not your thoughts. (Click here for the video recording of the March 9 Satsang I saw.)

His messages reinforced what I learned from Vipassana (click here for my Vipassana post) about mind behavior and true self. As he spoke, I felt the trembling of emotions throughout the hall. It was incredible to witness someone unravel and enlighten.

At the end of my second Mooji satsang, I found myself standing in what was to become Mooji’s greeting path after the session. As the entire hall was dead silent, I didn’t even realize he was still there (I was watching him depart on a large screen), slowly making his way through a sea of worshippers.

Soon enough, Mooji emerged in front of me. There was no place to go other than into his arm for what was to become my most memorable group bear hug ever. As I thanked him, he whispered “wonderful, wonderful, wonderful”, “thank you, thank you, thank you”. I have no idea how I have become so lucky but will not take this for granted.

Mooji Satsang attracting a large crowd daily

Going vegetarian, then fasting

I eat everything, and that includes meat, poultry, and seafood. Furthermore, I love to eat in general – I grew up in Japan where utmost attention is paid to food. I may be big on vegetables but had never thought of becoming a vegetarian, let alone not eating. But not being a vegetarian was not an option in Rishikesh. There was no liquor in town either.

To start off, I wasn’t sure what and how much I could actually eat on the trip since getting food sick seemed to be common for westerners traveling in India. I also did not know what to expect from ashram food.

It was a pleasant surprise the first time I ate at Osho Gangdham. The self service dinner consisted of freshly prepared, simple yet well balanced warm Indian meal with a rich melody of flavors. It was absolutely delicious (and all you can eat!). I did not miss eating animal protein and maintained robust energy. I went on to enjoy mostly India dishes and fresh fruits and salads for the rest of my stay. That is, until a dreadful idea of fasting was suggested by a new yogic friend.

In traditional yoga, physical cleansing was a prerequisite before you were taught any poses. Accordingly, my friend suggested that I try physical cleansing. In fact, I was to prioritize it over the physical yoga and meditation, which would act as a mere polish for me. This came as a shock to me.

The rationale was simple. When all the built-up toxins are removed and a body is purified, it will also cleanse the mind naturally. If you are in an impure body, how can you expect your mind to be clear? Point taken.

I was introduced to a host of traditional yogic cleansing rituals. They were primitive but effective and required a serious investment of time, commitment, and lifestyle changes, however temporary. Some were more physically or psychologically challenging than others. Not eating was the simplest of them.

During the 5-day fast, I was allowed to eat unlimited amount of honey mixed with freshly squeezed lemon juice. As a first timer and someone with high metabolism, this translated into a lot of honey. Fortunately, the Kriya Yoga training I was undergoing did not require vigorous physical exercises.

Surprisingly I did not get as hungry. My energy level did drop initially but I started feeling noticeably better after 3 days. I felt content even when surrounded by meals for other people, and the only thing I felt like eating became fresh perfectly ripe fruits (especially papaya) and maybe a cucumber.

As the five-day period came to an end, I felt as light as a feather. I celebrated the successful completion with a delightful bowl of fresh fruits, which had never tasted so good. I have received much complements about my skin since fasting and cleansing, which turned out to be the cheapest facial ever.

Now that I can enjoy food again, I have become highly selective about what to put back into my system. I scrutinize every food label and listen to my body when it repels things like fried food. I love how I feel now and hope to maintain it clean.

Perfect place to cleanse and nourish from the inside

Brief sightseeing – Jaipur and Agra

I concluded the trip with brief sightseeing stops in Jaipur and Agra before flying out of New Delhi.

I liked Jaipur for its well preserved old town and beautiful architecture. A fresh lassi from Lassiwala tasted amazing after a recent fast. Thanks to my hyped up physical condition, I was able to power through the 105-degree heat (+40 C) happily. Coming from a $6-a-night ashram in Rishikesh, Pearl Palace (deluxe room at 1700 rupees, ~$25) was shockingly luxurious and super charming. It is popular so book in advance.

I could not have left the region without seeing Taj Mahal (an easy day trip on a 2-hour express train from Delhi). I took a 6-hour train in from Jaipur and stayed overnight in Agra. That put me at Taj Mahal at sunrise for the the least crowd and milder temperature.

Taj Mahal masked in soft early morning sunrays was absolutely glorious.

It marked a magnificent end to my phenomenal trip, which seemed to have gone by too quickly. The experiences there were so rich and powerful, I left feeling completely transformed. Though I have been in Japan for 3 weeks now, Rishikesh remains dear to my heart.

Jaipur, layers of gates to enter the old city

Nepal

A privileged spiritual journey.

At the end of February, I caught a red eye from Melbourne to Kuala Lumpur, followed by a 5-hour flight to Kathmandu. In a confused state after having three breakfasts, I glanced over at the window and gasped. There rose majestic snow-capped Himalaya mountain range in the distance, seemingly at the same height as the plane. It’s sheer scale and transcending beauty were so powerful even from the distance. I knew right then that Nepal was going to be an unforgettable trip.

Best flight view ever! The Himalayas all along the way from Bhairahawa (near Lumbini) to Kathmandu

Trip Overview

I had originally meant my weeklong Nepal trip to be a hiking/yoga immersion experience. But after an exhilarating Vipassana silent meditation experience in January (click here for my Vipassana post), I altered the itinerary to include the sacred city Lumbini where Gotama Buddha was born, instead of the popular scenic lake town Pokhara.

Nepal was a culture shock for me. Even compared to Cambodia where I recently visited, its poverty appeared to be on another level, with barely functioning infrastructure. This was all made worse by the devastating earthquake in 2015, which killed nearly 9,000 people. The widespread damage from the earthquake was very visible in the Kathmandu area, with some of the landmark architecture remaining in crumble.

In Nepal, nothing could be taken for granted, including basic things like electricity and water. There were rocky dirt roads that I would have considered impassable by car. A handwritten seat number on a domestic flight ticket. Having to shout louder than others at an airport crew to get my suitcase at manual baggage claim. Having to hop on a moving bus after a bathroom stop (I wasn’t even the last one). Being directed to use a candle at a hotel when the power went out, as if it was the most natural thing (what’s the big deal?). Bathroom was the worst part of the trip, along with pollution, litter, and general dust.

Despite the scarcity of modern convenience, the country had an inexplicable appeal. Yes, there have the majestic Himalayas, which draw countless tourists from all over the world. But it was more the things you can’t see with eyes that touched my heart. Perhaps it was the kindest Nepalese people that always wanted to talk to you.. smiley women wearing bright lipsticks, slender men posing for selfies, and curious kids wanting to know where I was from. They seemed to be on a different schedule, with many just sitting around leisurely and staring down at passerby. Jobs seemed like a rare commodity. Religion is deeply integrated into the culture, and yet there was so much openness and acceptance. Every rundown truck was colorfully painted with Hindu gods, Buddha, and/or flowers.

In the ancient city of Bhaktapur, I hired a 32-year-old man who approached me near the ticket office and insisted on giving me a tour despite my apparent lack of interest. Like many Nepalese, he was a religious Hindu and visited temples daily, Hindu and Buddhist temples alike. We shared the same values: family, friends, love, integrity, etc. Despite his young age, he shunned frivolous spending on fashion by his sisters and believed in traditional values and morale principles. It didn’t take long to realize we were the same. This was one of my many fondly encounters with Nepalese people.

Later on, I learned he didn’t get a single tourist the day before and I was the only one for the day thus far (it was late morning). Though I had initially bargained down the tour price to under $4, I ended up paying him full $5 for the 2-hour tour. This was more than $4 he earned daily on average, or monthly income of ~$120, pretty good considering Nepal’s GDP per capita of $732 as of 2015 (i.e. average income of $61 per month) according to World Bank.

During my limited time in Nepal, I did not spot too many foreign tourists outside Kathmandu (perhaps they all went hiking), but many of the ones I met were repeat travelers. I now understand why.

Kathmandu

I spent 2 delightful nights at Kathmandu Guest House (https://ktmgh.com/kathmandu-guest-house/), a charming historic hotel with a large courtyard in the heart of the Thamel tourist district. I hired a driver through Good Vibe Adventure (www.goodvibeadventure.com) (was considerably cheaper than booking through the hotel) for a day tour that included the iconic Budhanath, Pashupatinath (Hindu temple), Durbar Square (the impressive heart of Kathmandu’s old town), and Swayambhunath (hilltop religious complex), all UNESCO World Heritage Sites.

My favorite was Swayambhunath, also known as Monkey Temple, where 365 steps take you to an ancient hilltop religious complex centered around a stupa, offering panoramic views of Kathmandu. I was intrigued to find both Buddhism and Hinduism intertwined, with Buddha statues, Hindu gods, shrines and monastery, signifying religious harmony. The stupa appeared to have survived the earthquake unscratched. Monkeys and colorful prayer flags adorn the complex.

A visit to Pashupatinath, the largest Hindu temple in Nepal, could not be had without deep emotions. Though non-Hindus are not allowed to enter the temple itself, on a nearby riverbank, I witnessed cleansing of a deceased woman wrapped in a bright orange body bag except for her face, in a customary proceeding before cremation. Her body was to be burned on a wooden set afterwards. She had most likely passed away that day and was surrounded by mourning family and friends. She seemed too young, possibly around my age (I am 39), and I felt pinned to the spot in sadness. There were more bodies waiting in line.

Basantapur Durbar Square in the heart of Kathmandu’s old town, the top of a pillar still toppled over from the 2015 earthquake

Budhanath, one of the world’s largest stupas

Charming buildings surrounding Boudhanath

Steps leading up to Swayambhunath (The Monkey Temple)

Encounter with sadu (holy person) at Pashupatinath. They offered me a blessing!

Kathmandu Guest House in Thamel, Kathmandu

Lumbini

It was an honor and a privilege to be able to come to the birthplace of Gautama Buddha. This was where it all began.

My sole intention was to pay utmost respect to the man who discovered something so extraordinary, attained enlightenment, and spread his teachings. I am grateful that the essence of his teachings has been passed along all this time and remain available to anyone who is interested in moving beyond the mundane world. To realize that I am not my (loud) mind, nor my (imperfect) body, and to be liberated from the boundaries my mind had long set for myself, has changed my entire perspective. This was not about religion. We all have bodies and minds.

The town itself revolves around Sacred Garden and its Maya Devi Temple, which houses some crumbled stones marking the birthplace of Gotama Buddha. The broader complex is expansive and includes various temples erected by different countries honoring Buddha’s birth. The city draws religious worshippers and pilgrims primarily from Asia. But outside Sacred Garden, the whole compound felt utterly deserted and quiet.

If you are just looking to do sightseeing, you do not need more than half a day to visit Sacred Garden and some of the foreign monasteries. But this is a place to be felt, rather than seen. Lumbini emanated the most peaceful air, and streams of worshippers heightened the reverence of the place. I was grateful to have two full days here for the spiritual experience unlike any other, albeit my brief history. I ended up visiting Sacred Garden twice daily to meditate and soak up the atmosphere.

Being Japanese, the one other temple on my list was the World Peace Pagoda (Japan Monastry). After admiring the lotus covered pond and visiting the main pagoda, I followed the sound of drums and found myself at a small temple with a few devotees inside. They were in the middle of an evening prayer, tirelessly chanting “Na Mu Myo Ho Ren Ge Kyo” (from the Nichiren sect of Buddhism in Japan). The mantra translated into devoting oneself to Lotus Sutra.

After I sat on a floor cushion in the back, a monk walked over to hand me a thin hand drum and a stick. I naturally jumped on the opportunity to join the prayer. Emptying the mind and filling it with the endless prayer, I felt utterly lucky that I can fully comprehend and resonate with the sutra, giving the mind no choice but to be subdued.

The prayer continued onto a half-an-hour walk around the pagoda, frequently halted by bows in front of each religious symbol. I was sad to leave after the chanting walk (I needed to bike back on rocky roads before dark) but came away with a profound sense of inner peace and happiness, with “Na Mu Myo Ho Ren Ge Kyo” long echoing in the mind.

Bhaktapur and Nagarkot

My last destination was Nagarkot, a hilltop farming village in Kathmandu Valley where I would stay for the last night.

Bhaktapur was well worth a stop along the way and a destination on its own (used to film parts of Little Buddha). Described as a cultural gem and an open museum, the medieval royal city was remarkably well preserved and pleasantly devoid of traffic. There were intricate wood carvings to be admired and traditional clay pottery making to be observed. A stroll among narrow back streets lined with faded red brick houses provided a glimpse of unchanging way of life. It was no coincident my guide was a traditionalist, shunning the modern world, particularly materialism.

On my last morning in Nepal, I jumped out of bed for the last chance to see the Himalayas from the ground on this trip. I chose to stay in Nagarkot (itself at 2,200 meter elevation, or 7,200 feet) overnight instead of doing a popular sunrise trek from Kathmandu so I can savor the view (hoping there was one!). My earlier attempts at Himalaya viewing from Kathmandu and its surrounding areas were unsuccessful due to the stubborn smog. I had heard repeat travelers talk about how they were not able to see the Himalayas on some of their previous trips because of unfavorable weather conditions. As I had begun pursuing a life of no expectations, I tried to ready myself for whatever outcome that was meant to happen. It was not like I had any power over weather anyway..

I felt uncertain when I first saw what looked like large clouds amassing above mountains in the dark. My excitement spiked when I realized they were indeed some massive mountains. On a hotel’s protruding terrace where the air was filled with anticipation by anxious guests, a silence prevailed as I watched the Himalayas emerge in a spectacular morning glory. Though Mr. Everest (8,848 meters, or 29,029 feet) could not be spotted, the 7,000-meter mountain range was mesmerizing and humbling, a sight never to be forgotten. I felt extremely lucky and grateful.

Bhaktapur, an ancient city in Kathmandu Valley

Best swing view ever.. the Himalayas from Unkai Resort in Nagarkot

Travel tips

There was no need to fix itinerary in advance for travelling in February as you can book everything locally. I had a pleasant experience working with Kisan Thapa from Good Vibe Adventure (goodvibeadventure.com), who understood my intentions and got me good prices for guides and drivers. Besides, everyone seemed to have friends who can fulfill all your needs, from a last minute tour guide to 2-hour laundry service.
Allow extra time for in-country travel, from air and bus services (delays were common) to day trips (Kathmandu had serious traffics as of March 2017 partly due to water pipeline construction).
For my 260-km journey from Kathmandu to Lumbini, I took a bus one way to see the idyllic countryside (9 hours) and flew back for gorgeous Himalaya views (30 minutes). Finding the right bus was tricky (few English signs and every person we asked pointed to a different bus). I tipped my taxi driver to find me the right one.
Get a face mask as a smog protection. My disposable one turned dark after 2 days.
In my search for a driver, a “parking lot” turned out to be a street lined with cars, and a “big parking lot” was really a normal parking lot.
A “new bicycle” for rent meant a beaten down bike that was still somewhat functional (I first tried an “old” bike and could not get it to ride straight.)
Lower your hygiene expectations and carry your own tissues and hand sanitizers. “Bathroom” can mean anything.

Australia

Gorgeous sceneries, masking survival of the fittest in unforgiving climate

I only saw a tiny portion of this massive country. But 10 days there gave me a glimpse of the vastness and powerfulness of its nature, encounters with peculiar endemic creatures, and envious quality of life to be enjoyed with delectable food and wine and laid back culture. But I was the most impressed with the endurance and survival skills of the local species.

I travelled with a friend and was happy to find a variety of mid-range hotel options. I visited Sydney first in early February (was there for the historic heat wave), and after a side trip to New Zealand, returned to explore Whitsunday Islands in Great Barrier Reef and Melbourne later in the month.

Coming from New Zealand, I was pretty sure I had just witnessed the most beautiful places on earth. Then I saw Whitehaven beach on Whitsunday Islands and was blown away.

I am going to say this again.. My trip was truly amazing and this place would be hard to beat!

Sydney
Sydney was so much more than the opera house, which itself was visually stunning (inside & out), or deceivingly cute kangaroos. The city was filled with hilly tree-lined streets, vibrant energy, and bustling restaurant scene, which seemed to grow even more attractive at night. Sydney’s central business district was buzzing with smartly dressed business people. (The old me would have gone on a shopping spree here!)

Business or nonbusiness, I encountered the most cheerful easy going people, which made my four days there thoroughly enjoyable. Special thanks to the staff at Tank Stream Hotel for treating me like an old friend with their openness and friendliness.

Food: I enjoyed the quality and diversity of food options and was delighted by the abundance of fresh oysters and sushi restaurants. The enticing fresh seafood counters at Sydney Fish Market called for a spontaneous feast – my favorite was fresh sea urchin, caviar topped oysters, king salmon sashimi, and a lobster (it was a birthday feast!). I did not get a to try mud crab, which will have to wait till next time.

The Rocks neighborhood was charming with its colonial feel and historic pubs and made an enchanting dinner destination. The Newtown neighborhood surprised me with superb Thai food (Thai Photong). The latte-like Flat White became my new favorite coffee drink. It was not uncommon to order and pay upfront, no tipping required.

Beach: There were breathtaking golden beaches right outside the city. Manly Beach was much more laid back than the more famous high energy Bondi beach, both inviting in their own ways. Swimming was limited to small confined areas due to the crushing waves, which I inadvertently got a taste of when I took a few steps into the water (and went completely under).

Blue Mountains: I took a popular day trip to the expansive Blue Mountains during a monstrous 100-plus degree (Fahrenheit) heat wave and got a feel for the harsh hot dry climate that makes up most of the country.

The lush mountains were spectacular and covered in blue haze in the distance. I couldn’t be sure how much of the haze came from the well publicized light reflection (from eucalyptus tree oil released into the air) or the heat. The sun was dizzyingly strong, and there was no escaping the uncomfortable temperature even in their dense eucalyptus forrest.

I was surprised to learn about how viciously violent kangaroos can be (not at all like the gentle vegetarians I had imagined) or how koalas are the only mammal to eat poisonous eucalyptus leaves (and sleep ~20 hours a day for minimal energy use!). I couldn’t help but admire all the living spices for their strengths and adaptability to survive the extreme climate.

For me, the heat wave, horrible traffic, and a missed ferry resulted in the most gorgeous view of full moon rising above the Sydney harbor at twilight as we returned to the city on a ferry. It was a reminder that if something doesn’t work out, there are better things waiting if you remain open.

Blue Mountain eucalyptus forrest in a 100-degree heat wave

Sydney Opera House in twilight with full moon

Whitsunday Islands, Great Barrier Reef

This place made me realize I am on a tour of the world’s most beautiful places. I thought what I saw on New Zealand’s South Island would be unbeatable, but this place was ridiculously pretty.

I did a full day excursion to Whitehaven Beach on Whitsunday Islands, made up of 74 islands at the southern tip of Great Barrier Reef. The sight was out of this world.

The wavy, super soft white sand seem to stretch out ever so gently, for as far as you could see. I found myself still solidly standing on the ocean floor after walking into the water for minutes. And thanks to the insulation provided by the Great Barrier Reef, I saw the quietest undulation of the water, reminiscent of the soft wavy patterns left on the white sandy beach.

I only have modest snorkeling experience to compare to, but snorkeling at Bali Hai Reef was incredible. Its bright corals start just a few steps off the beach in the calmest waters, and vibrant marine life quickly surrounds you. Because of the low tide, I found myself swimming only inches away from corals at times, making me a bit nervous. It was all too pretty.

Reefstar’s three island cruise was well organized and perfectly executed by the friendliest crew. I could not think of a better way to experience the beach, islands, and snorkeling, and it came with sumptuous but healthy lunch buffet. They also provided full body suites in addition to snorkeling gears as it was marine stinger season (think lethal jellyfish), which also helped prevent exposure from seriously strong sun.

Airlie Beach was a perfect launching pad for Whitsunday Islands. The center of the laid back beach town was lined with open air restaurants and shops. Amid the marine stinger season, the town’s man made lagoon was open for free for when you are not island hopping. I had a fantastic line-caught snapper at The Grid and plump prawns at Sidewalk Cafe, the locals’ favorite. The oceanfront Sorrentos had the best location for a sunset drink.

Whitehaven Beach – endless stretch of the softest wavy sands

Melbourne

This was meant to be a quick stop before transitioning to the next segment of my trip, but I ended up having a blast. Being entertained by a local friend helped, and so did numerous vineyards, compact but green city center, artsy buildings, gorgeous riverfront park intertwined with a botanical garden, delectable food (loved the authentic Japanese dishes and fresh fish), and super friendly locals. I enjoyed fantastic wine in Yarra Valley, about an hour drive from the city.

Melbourne turned out to be a fun place to cap off my memorable New Zealand and Australia trip. It was also a perfect city to enjoy civilization before heading off to Nepal (where I am now) and India (where I am headed next week). My next post will likely be very different, and I hope to post it soon!

Chandon winery in Yarra Valley (near Melbourne)

New Zealand’s South Island

The land of epic nature.

One of the numerous dream-like lakes (on the drive from Wanaka to Fox Glacier)

This was the most beautiful place I have ever been to.

As expected, the biggest draw was its nature. What was unexpected was its vastness and the intensity of its beauty, and how you can often have it all to yourself, unspoiled by civilization. The place had it all: lush green forests, glacier topped mountains, countless picturesque lakes, and tranquil ocean bay, all seemingly made more beautiful by the clearest air. Even the shapes of the clouds and the cartoonish pale blue sky seemed out-worldly. I would need to expand my vocabulary and improve photography skill and equipment to capture how magnificent this place is (all the pictures on this post are from iPhone 7 Plus, unfiltered).

The impressive nature was complemented by an unparalleled variety of outdoor activities, charming lakeside towns, delightful food, world class wine, and the friendliest people. My favorite activities were trekking, driving, taking ferries, and kayaking. This blog contains details on my trekking and driving experiences and a highlight of the places I visited.

Having recently completed Vipassana silent meditation (see my last post), this land was the perfect place to enjoy simply being in the present, breathe in the blissfully fresh air, and admire the ethereal nature in awe. I left the island feeling euphoric, thoroughly cleansed and blessed by the mother nature. It was a long way from the US and not the cheapest country but well worth it.

The trip/Logistics:

I spent 9 days traveling through South Island in a rental car. I flew into Queenstown and out of Wellington, the south eastern tip of North Island. I drove between 2-6 hours on most days, first heading down southwest, then back up north through the midland, out to the west coast, and eventually to the northeastern corner, where I caught a ferry to Wellington. I missed much of the east coast on this trip as I wanted the glacier experience of the west. I stayed in Queenstown, Te Anau (gateway to Milford Sound), Wanaka, Fox Glacier, Saint Arnaud, Nelson (near Abel Tasman National Park), and Wellington.

I travelled with a friend and switched hotels almost daily as we migrated through the island. February was the peak summer travel season and many hotels were already fully booked by the time I started looking in December. Regardless of the hotel class, I was consistently met with the most hospitable hosts.

The weather constantly changed (forecast was unreliable at best), and it was not uncommon to see sun/blue sky and rain/dark clouds at the same time. There was a beauty brought on by all weather conditions.

Favorite Experience #1: Trekking

New Zealand is a hikers paradise given its nature’s outstanding diversity and beauty. I did three trails, each incredible in its own way. None listed here required any trekking permit. Be prepared for all weather types and check trail conditions in advance. Here is a comparison of the treks I did:

Trek #1: Ben Lomond Track in Queenstown – the most scenic, intermediate 6-hour trail (panormic view of Lake Wakatipu and mountain valleys)

This was the longest and the most scenic trek I did, with fantastic open view almost all the way. I started at the top of gondola rather than hiking up from the city. Though the last stretch to the summit was pretty steep (doable, just steep), the view got better as I climbed and ended with fairy tale-like panorama of the lake and mountain valley. The majority of the hike was in open space, and despite the occasional sun, gusts and raindrops, it was totally worth it. (Note: You come down the same way you go up and can still enjoy fantastic view even if you don’t make it to the summit.)

I also loved that you can enjoy drinks and snacks back at the gondola station’s cafe overlooking Queenstown. I did not eat at the buffet-only restaurant (was fully booked) but can see how it offers the best view of the city.

Endless stretch of mountains on the other

The summit (a surprise greeting by New Zealand’s kea bird – the world’s only alpine parrot)

Trek #2: Rocky Mountain Lake Diamond Track near Wanaka – 3-hour scenic trail (Lake Wanaka and distant glacier views)

This leisurely trail overlooked Lake Wanaka on one side and glacier topped mountains on the other. It contained a pleasant mix of shady and open trails (can be warm on a sunny day) and was much less straneous than Ben Lomond Track but just as pretty. The panoramic view from the summit was unforgettable.

This was a last minute change from the popular Rob Roy Track (listed in my guidebook as one of the country’s top 4 tracks). Because of fresh snowfall in the area, we would have needed to drive across a dozen streams to get to the starting point. I would still like to trek Rob Roy one day but was very happy with the alternative.

Trek #3: Roberts Point Track in Franz Josef – my favorite! 5-hour challenging trail (stunning greenery with glacier overlook)

This track was not easy but was the most rewarding, and even the challenging part was immensely enjoyable. The trail began with super pleasant Douglas Walk, which was worthy on its own for its wide forrested trail and a mirror-like lake. The first swing bridge marked the start of the more challenging Roberts Point Track, which was almost fully shaded by moss-covered trees and included steady inclines, occasional stream crossings and rock leaping. There were far stretched swing bridges, multiple waterfalls, and open valley and river views. The trail came to an abrupt end overlooking Franz Josef Glacier, which was simply breathtaking. But it was really the intensity of the greenness of the ground and trees that won me over and made me feel like I was on another planet.

(Note: You go back the way you come but will miss the Glacier view if you don’t make it to the top. There is also a much shorter and easier lower trail that takes you to the bottom of the Franz Josef Glacier, which may be a better option if short on time or hiking experience.)

I was told by two separate local girls that the trek could be done in 3 hours. They must have been avid hikers as I ended up having to race my way back and it still took me over 4 hours. The park lists this as a 5-hour hike with stern warnings that the trail is for experienced well-equipped hikers only (i.e. You do need good hiking shoes).

This was an excellent alternative to a +NZ$400 (~US$300) helihike where you fly over and land on the glacier for glacier trekking (I have already seen expansive glaciers at Perito Moreno in Patagonia and was too cheap to pay for a helihike). The trek is free and you get a great workout, not to mention the spectacular nature that engulf you every step of the way.

Douglas Walk (en route to Roberts Point Track)

The longest of the multiple swing bridges at Roberts Point Track

Trail filled with multitude of greenness

Even the rocks are all dressed in green!

Back to Douglas Walk, an enchanting finish to a straneous trek

(Note: You can find much better pictures of Robert Points Track on coastingnz’s Aug. 1, 2015 blog: Robert Points Track – an Insane Walk in the Wilderness)

Favorite Experience #2: Driving

I don’t drive regularly, but driving through the island’s most scenic, sparsely populated countryside was truly delightful. I saw more sheep and cows than mankind and at times went for miles without running into a single car. The drive to Milford Sound from Ta Anau was magical and the most impressive. I was blessed by so many accidental sunrise and sunset views on the road.

The only thing to keep in mind is to drive on the left side of the road and look to the right in their numerous roundabouts. Additionally, there are many winding mountain roads to navigate, but the long daylight facilitated driving at night (stayed light outside till close to ~9pm in February).

Drive along West Coast (just north of Fox Glacier)

Places visited:

Queenstown – compact and easily walkable with well-sourced souvenir stores and a sophisticated restaurant scene. The lakeside town was picturesque and full of energy, though it was touristy (expected) and appeared to be taken over by drunken youths at night (unexpected).

In addition to the Ben Lomond Track (see above), a ferry ride to Walter Pete farm turned out to be a delectable experience suitable for all. The half day trip on a historic TSS Earnslaw steamship (over 100 years old!) took me through the lovely Lake Wakatipu and came with delicious lunch buffet.

Te Anau – a convenient stopover on the way to Milford Sound. Though there was not much to do in town itself, it was worth staying overnight in order to catch a morning ferry in Milford Sound and avoid all the day trippers from Queenstown.

Milford Sound – one of the highlights of my trip. I did a classic 2-hour boat cruise through the mystic mountains covered in tear-like waterfalls out to Tasmanian sea. But the best part was driving there from Te Anau in the morning as snow capped mountains surrounded me in unforgettable beauty.

Sunrise over snow peaked mountains on the way to Milford Sound from Te Anau

Some of the countless temporary waterfalls

2-hour morning cruise (few other ships around!)

Arrowtown – quaint village near Queenstown, on the way to Wanaka from Milford Sound. I enjoyed seafood dinner in Postmasters Residence’s gorgeous patio.

Wanaka – scenic lake town near Queenstown. My guidebook listed it as a popular retirement dream place, and I believe it. My original plan was to hike Rob Roy Track from there but ended up doing Diamond Rocky Mountain Lake Diamond Loop due to road conditions. I have no regrets (see above).

Fox Glacier/Franz Josef Glacier – launching pads for glaciers. I hiked to Roberts Point to overlook Franz Josef Glacier (see above).

St. Arnaud – hidden gem on the way from Franz Josef Glacier to Nelson (worth a stop if on the way).

Vineyard – there is no shortage of wineries between Saint Arnaud and Abel Tasman Park if you don’t have time to make it to world famous Marlborough. I was told the region offers more variety of wine compared to Sauvignon Blanc oriented Marlborough.

Nelson – a big commercial town conveniently located between Abel Tasman Park and Picton. The restaurant options were good but the town itself lacked the charm I saw in other places. Next time, I would stay closer to or in the park itself.

Abel Tasman National Park – gorgeous and superb for kayaking. I did a morning kayak tour with Kaiteriteri Kayaks to Split Apple rock (southern tip of Tasman). I was lucky to have the most serine water and caught a glimpse of a giant sting ray. Mapua was a cute nearby town to stop for lunch and shopping.

Picton to Wellington ferry – pure tranquility and one of the most mesmorizing ferry rides I have ever taken. Its ethereal beauty reminded me of Halong Bay in Vietnam. We even had friendly dolphins swim by us.

Wellington – my final stop in New Zealand. The eclectic but casual city center is easily walkable, and Cuba street lined with stores and restaurants appeared to be the liveliest area. A cable car took me to a nearby hilltop overlooking the city, where I enjoyed a stroll in the free botanical garden.

I enjoyed surprisingly authentic fresh sushi at Wasabi Sushi on Cuba Street, which served kaiten sushi (sushi served on a moving conveyor belt; you pick whatever looks good and pay according to the number of plates you had). The tucked away lounge at The Library was worthy as a final spot for cocktail and dessert.

Next time..

New Zealand is now at the top of my list of places to go back to. My wishlist for next time include more of what I did plus the followings:

Mount Cook
Fiordland National Park
Rob Roy Track
Natural hot spring
Serious star gazing
Queenstown night view
More wineries

See you again New Zealand!

12 Days in Vietnam & Cambodia

Magnificent historic sites, vibrant culture, ancient cities, scenic nature, and incredibly delicious food. So happy I finally made it!

This trip was everything I love traveling for: gaining new perspectives and coming away with new found appreciation for what I have.

It was a long way from the U.S. but well worth it. Twelve days were hardly enough.

Itinerary:

2 nights in Hanoi
2-day 1-night cruise in Halong Bay
3 nights in Hoi An/Danang
3 nights in Cambodia (Siem Reap)
1 night in Ho Chi Min City

I had this 12-day 5-destination trip planned while still working full time. I travelled with a girlfriend from New York and stayed at some of the nicest hotels. Here are my top experiences by destination.

Hanoi

On the first morning in Hanoi city center, I convinced my high class girlfriend to try a local food stall that serves Pho, the popular Vietnamese rice noodle soup. I watched my friend’s face change from horror as we settled into the no frill place (I ignored her desperate call behind me, leaving her no choice but to follow me inside) to a momentary confusion as she took her first bite, then finally to acceptance and delight as she surrendered herself to the soup. It set the tone for the rest of the trip.

I had 2 full days in Hanoi, including one day of recovery after traveling for 24 hours (13-hour flight from Chicago to Tokyo, followed by a 5.5-hour flight to Hanoi). Food was by far the best part of my Hanoi experience.

Every dish had an amazing melody of flavors, made with the freshest ingredients and garnished with a variety of herbs and sauces. One food tour guide explained the pork I was eating came from a pig that was likely killed around 2am that day. It could not have been fresher!

I stayed at Elegant Suite (near Westlake) on the first night and the historic Sofitel Legend Metropole for two nights. I absolutely enjoyed Sofitel, an urban oasis. Its topnotch cocktail in a tranquil setting was a real treat away from the hustle of the city. I also had the shocking experience of touring an onsite bomb shelter there (part of a hotel tour), whose entrance was nestled between a posh poolside bar and an elegant pool. It was a stark contrast to the luxurious surrounding and a reminder of how fortunate I was to be there for a tour and not out of necessity.

We took a half-day city walking tour, which provided a good feel for the city, and more importantly, taught us how to cross the streets (very important, see my notes at the end). Tuk tuk rides were fun and efficient but came with uncontrolled fume from surrounding motorbikes. Running outside was not a good idea. The bustle of the city made my visit to the green Temple of Literature and spa time highly enjoyable (loved the upscale SF Spa in the heart of Old Quarter; 30-min foot massage cost $10).

Pho, the quintessential Vietnamese breakfast. I could eat this every day!

Bomb shelter entrance at Sofitel Legend Metropole

Ha Long Bay

Made up of ~2,000 limestone islands and not one is the same. I was engulfed in mystical haze on the first day, which made the scenery even more stunning. The pictures do not do justice!

I did a 2-day 1-night cruise on a luxury Chinese-style junk boat with Paradise Cruise, which departed from Tuan Chau Island (vs. the main port in Bai Chay, which I read can get overcrowded). Aside from gazing at varied islands in the calmest water, I visited a fishing village and toured an illuminated cave, which also had a fantastic view overlooking the bay.

Tried on a traditional Vietnamese outfit

Hoi An (by Danang)

Hoi An quickly became my favorite Vietnamese city for its enchanting time slip experience. I stayed at Naman Retreat, a beachfront resort situated in between Hoi An (ancient town) and Danang (where the airport was). I visited Hoi An twice but regretfully did not make it to Hue.

A stroll among the ancient houses adorned with lanterns was delightful day and night (pedestrian only in the center!). Given all the cute stores and my dwindling supply of clean clothes, I found it hard not to shop and even got a pair of sandals, custom made in an hour (a store person traced my feet onto a piece of paper and measured their heights). A walking food tour introduced me to more delectable Vietnamese food and local specialties (my favorite was shrimp dumpling called white rose, named after its shape).

Though we went in the middle of the rainy season, we were blessed with occasional sun, and Naman Retreat proved to be a great choice. Its spectacular grounds adorned with bamboo and lush green, impeccable service with the friendliest employees, and various freebies (e.g. daily yoga and massage) made the experience special.

Banh Vac (white rose dumplings) at elegant Secret Garden

Naman Retreat’s earthy setting called for some yoga!

Siem Reap, Cambodia

This was a place I had been yearning to go to ever since I first saw a picture of Ta Prohm. Even with my high expectations, I was still blown away. In addition to the spectacular display of nature’s destructive force, I saw magnificent temples and encountered some of the most beautiful smiles.

We stayed at Sofitel Angkor, a French colonial elegance with expansive manicured gardens. We hired a private driver and a guide for two full days of sightseeing. Though it was late December, it was 29 degrees Celcius (84F) when we landed in the evening and got even hotter during the day.

Day 1: We covered Beng Mealea (jungle temple) and Phnom Kulen (sacred mountain with carved riverbed, reclining Buddha, waterfall, and much more). Beng Mealea was simply stunning, with trees rising out of the abandoned temple and roots tearing through the structure. We were happy we made a last minute decision to visit Phnom Kulen instead of Kbal Spean (also known for carved riverbed but we were warned a hike up in the heat would be strenuous). Phnom Kulen offered a variety of sights and a chance to mingle with the locals as we swam by the waterfall. I felt grateful for a blessing offered by a monk and heart broken at the sight of countless children begging.

Day 2: I toured Angkor Wat, Banteay Srei, Ta Prohm, and Angkor Thom from sunrise to sunset. I was in awe as the world’s largest religious building Angkor Wat emerged from the darkness at sunrise. Ta Prohm was mesmerizing with its massive tree roots overpowering anything in the way. Bayon at Angkor Thom was almost comical and brought out the most joyous feelings with its 216 giant smiling faces.

Men vs. nature. The nature has won at Beng Mealea.

This incredible tree was what originally inspired me to visit Cambodia (Ta Prohm)

Hard not to smile when you are surrounded by so many smiling faces! (Bayon, Angkor Thom)

Cambodian students displaying the purest happiness (waterfall on Phnom Kulen mountain)

Ho Chi Min City (Saigon)

This was the last destination and a quick stop in transit. It was nothing like Hanoi with its tall modern buildings, though the food scene was just as excellent. I enjoyed my last pho and some shopping at Ben Thanh Market, continued eating at Lunch Lady (a street food stall featured in Anthony Bourdain’s TV show No Reservations), did a quick tour of Reunification Palace, and had refreshing cocktails at Shri Rooftop overlooking the city.

Had the best table at the famed Lunch Lady

Not your ordinary chicken noodle soup. Lady Lunch definitely lived up to her reputation!

Bargaining skills required at Ben Thanh market

Ho Chi Min City night view from Shri Rooftop

Thank you Vietnam & Cambodia for such a rich travel experience!

Comments on some practical things:

Logistics: I flew 3 times locally (Hanoi – Danang – Siem Reap – Ho Chi Min) on Vietnamese Airline ($170 altogether). Halong Bay was about 4 hours from Hanoi by car. I prearranged for all the airport transfers via Hanoi Transfer Service ($17 per transfer for no hassle experience). There was an abundance of tuk tuk and metered taxis in cities.
Crossing the streets: Vietnam felt generally safe, but streets were mostly overcrowded, and crossing them was no easy task. I had to learn to walk straight into oncoming mass of motorbikes and cars, which never stopped for me (they go around pedestrians, so do go slow and do not make hasty surprise moves). I had never been so relieved to see traffic lights!
Bargaining: I found all kinds of cute inexpensive souvenirs, but pricing was not uniform and typically required bargaining. I walked away from one place offering a lantern for VDN220, (bargained down from original 270 but above my final offer of 200) and later bought the same thing for 140 (down from 180).
Massage was cheap, and Wifi seemed to be everywhere.
In Vietnam, some of the people at food stalls were rather abrupt, and English was not as widely spoken. But my attempt at saying thank you in Vietnamese brought out a smile without fail.

Introduction

I am one of the stiffest yogis you will ever meet.

Stiff in body and mind, on a journey to flexibility.

I have been practicing yoga for well over a decade, including almost daily for the past year. The desire to improve lifelong inflexibility, the appeal of physical challenge, and the stress of a finance job led me to seek relief in yoga. I even became a RYT200 certified yoga teacher in February 2016. Still, there are many poses I cannot come close to getting into, and the ones I can, I don’t look anything like the bendy yogis you would see on Instagram.

Despite my unyielding stiffness, I love yoga more than ever. Physically, it restores balance and keeps me fit and healthy. But more important is the psychological impact, providing insight into who I really am (by observing my mind and how I react to poses) and bringing out peace and gratitude that often get overshadowed by a louder cousin named stress (by reminding me of all the things I already have). It gives me broader perspectives and clarity and teaches me to focus on the present instead of brooding over the past or worrying about the future.

I was born and raised in Japan, where things like order and harmony among groups are valued above individuality and risk taking, and life-for-employment model still prevails. As a daughter of a typical Japanese salaryman, I moved with my family every few years, having to switch schools each time. Shortly after starting high school, my family underwent another routine rotation, except this time it was to New York. It was the best thing that had ever happened to me!

I loved the openness and freedom of the U.S. so much that when my family moved back to Japan, I stayed. I landed a job at a large bank out of college with my heart filled with excitement and optimism. Everything was fresh, and I felt fearless.

Then came all the grinding in Corporate America, slowly but surely, as I held onto the job day after day, year after year, which eventually stretched out to 16+ years. I had unwittingly become a slave to the job. I was complacent with the comfort and security I had built around myself, and paychecks had long taken over as my master.

It was not until my yoga teacher training I saw the gap between where I was and where I wanted to at least try to be. I noticed my adventurous spirit, long tucked away dormant and unacknowledged. But did I have enough courage and confidence in myself to leave my protective shell and leap into the unknown world? The only barrier was sheer fear.

The most valuable lesson I learned in my yoga teacher training was the philosophy of yoga, including how things like ego, refusal, attachment and fear distort our view (called avidiya in Sanskrit, ancient Indian language). In yoga, all sufferings in the world are said to be caused by not seeing things clearly. My teacher spent days discussing concepts like non-attachment (aparigraha) and compassion (ahimsa). It transformed my view.

In the fall of 2016, after particularly gruesome weeks at work, I resigned from my job to pursue two passions: travel and yoga. There is no telling how my journey will go. But my new definition of success includes failures as potential outcome, so long as I am giving my passion a chance to bloom and living in the present with no internal conflict. After all, if things don’t work out, I can always go back to my old corporate world (right?).

I now accept my physical inflexibility as part of who I am and welcome fear as an inevitable company to excitement. Through my blog, I hope to share my cultural and spiritual journey to come and spread my love of yoga, especially among those that may feel too intimidated to try. Yoga is for everyone, and possibilities are endless if you approach it with an open mind.

Thank you for letting me share my journey with you.

Namaste,

StiffYogi

Lotus flower rising above muddy water, a symbol of purity and fresh start. — A lotus flower spreads out clean petals after emerging from muddy water, symbolizing purity. It is said to close its petals at night and reopens them each morning, marking a fresh start daily.