Gorgeous sceneries, masking survival of the fittest in unforgiving climate

I only saw a tiny portion of this massive country. But 10 days there gave me a glimpse of the vastness and powerfulness of its nature, encounters with peculiar endemic creatures, and envious quality of life to be enjoyed with delectable food and wine and laid back culture.  But I was the most impressed with the endurance and survival skills of the local species.

I travelled with a friend and was happy to find a variety of mid-range hotel options. I visited Sydney first in early February (was there for the historic heat wave), and after a side trip to New Zealand, returned to explore Whitsunday Islands in Great Barrier Reef and Melbourne later in the month.

Coming from New Zealand, I was pretty sure I had just witnessed the most beautiful places on earth. Then I saw Whitehaven beach on Whitsunday Islands and was blown away.

I am going to say this again.. My trip was truly amazing and this place would be hard to beat!

Sydney
Sydney was so much more than the opera house, which itself was visually stunning (inside & out), or deceivingly cute kangaroos. The city was filled with hilly tree-lined streets, vibrant energy, and bustling restaurant scene, which seemed to grow even more attractive at night. Sydney’s central business district was buzzing with smartly dressed business people. (The old me would have gone on a shopping spree here!)

Business or nonbusiness, I encountered the most cheerful easy going people, which made my four days there thoroughly enjoyable. Special thanks to the staff at Tank Stream Hotel for treating me like an old friend with their openness and friendliness.

Food: I enjoyed the quality and diversity of food options and was delighted by the abundance of fresh oysters and sushi restaurants. The enticing fresh seafood counters at Sydney Fish Market called for a spontaneous feast – my favorite was fresh sea urchin, caviar topped oysters, king salmon sashimi, and a lobster (it was a birthday feast!). I did not get a to try mud crab, which will have to wait till next time.

The Rocks neighborhood was charming with its colonial feel and historic pubs and made an enchanting dinner destination. The Newtown neighborhood surprised me with superb Thai food (Thai Photong). The latte-like Flat White became my new favorite coffee drink. It was not uncommon to order and pay upfront, no tipping required.

Beach: There were breathtaking golden beaches right outside the city. Manly Beach was much more laid back than the more famous high energy Bondi beach, both inviting in their own ways. Swimming was limited to small confined areas due to the crushing waves, which I inadvertently got a taste of when I took a few steps into the water (and went completely under).

Blue Mountains: I took a popular day trip to the expansive Blue Mountains during a monstrous 100-plus degree (Fahrenheit) heat wave and got a feel for the harsh hot dry climate that makes up most of the country.

The lush mountains were spectacular and covered in blue haze in the distance. I couldn’t be sure how much of the haze came from the well publicized light reflection (from eucalyptus tree oil released into the air) or the heat. The sun was dizzyingly strong, and there was no escaping the uncomfortable temperature even in their dense eucalyptus forrest.

I was surprised to learn about how viciously violent kangaroos can be (not at all like the gentle vegetarians I had imagined) or how koalas are the only mammal to eat poisonous eucalyptus leaves (and sleep ~20 hours a day for minimal energy use!). I couldn’t help but admire all the living spices for their strengths and adaptability to survive the extreme climate.

For me, the heat wave, horrible traffic, and a missed ferry resulted in the most gorgeous view of full moon rising above the Sydney harbor at twilight as we returned to the city on a ferry. It was a reminder that if something doesn’t work out, there are better things waiting if you remain open.

Whitsunday Islands, Great Barrier Reef

This place made me realize I am on a tour of the world’s most beautiful places. I thought what I saw on New Zealand’s South Island would be unbeatable, but this place was ridiculously pretty.

I did a full day excursion to Whitehaven Beach on Whitsunday Islands, made up of 74 islands at the southern tip of Great Barrier Reef. The sight was out of this world.

The wavy, super soft white sand seem to stretch out ever so gently, for as far as you could see. I found myself still solidly standing on the ocean floor after walking into the water for minutes. And thanks to the insulation provided by the Great Barrier Reef, I saw the quietest undulation of the water, reminiscent of the soft wavy patterns left on the white sandy beach.

I only have modest snorkeling experience to compare to, but snorkeling at Bali Hai Reef was incredible. Its bright corals start just a few steps off the beach in the calmest waters, and vibrant marine life quickly surrounds you. Because of the low tide, I found myself swimming only inches away from corals at times, making me a bit nervous. It was all too pretty.

Reefstar’s three island cruise was well organized and perfectly executed by the friendliest crew. I could not think of a better way to experience the beach, islands, and snorkeling, and it came with sumptuous but healthy lunch buffet. They also provided full body suites in addition to snorkeling gears as it was marine stinger season (think lethal jellyfish), which also helped prevent exposure from seriously strong sun.

Airlie Beach was a perfect launching pad for Whitsunday Islands. The center of the laid back beach town was lined with open air restaurants and shops. Amid the marine stinger season, the town’s man made lagoon was open for free for when you are not island hopping. I had a fantastic line-caught snapper at The Grid and plump prawns at Sidewalk Cafe, the locals’ favorite. The oceanfront Sorrentos had the best location for a sunset drink.

Melbourne

This was meant to be a quick stop before transitioning to the next segment of my trip, but I ended up having a blast. Being entertained by a local friend helped, and so did numerous vineyards, compact but green city center, artsy buildings, gorgeous riverfront park intertwined with a botanical garden, delectable food (loved the authentic Japanese dishes and fresh fish), and super friendly locals. I enjoyed fantastic wine in Yarra Valley, about an hour drive from the city.

Melbourne turned out to be a fun place to cap off my memorable New Zealand and Australia trip.  It was also a perfect city to enjoy civilization before heading off to Nepal (where I am now) and India (where I am headed next week).  My next post will likely be very different, and I hope to post it soon!