The land of epic nature.

This was the most beautiful place I have ever been to.

As expected, the biggest draw was its nature.  What was unexpected was its vastness and the intensity of its beauty, and how you can often have it all to yourself, unspoiled by civilization.  The place had it all: lush green forests, glacier topped mountains, countless picturesque lakes, and tranquil ocean bay, all seemingly made more beautiful by the clearest air.  Even the shapes of the clouds and the cartoonish pale blue sky seemed out-worldly.  I would need to expand my vocabulary and improve photography skill and equipment to capture how magnificent this place is (all the pictures on this post are from iPhone 7 Plus, unfiltered).

The impressive nature was complemented by an unparalleled variety of outdoor activities, charming lakeside towns, delightful food, world class wine, and the friendliest people.  My favorite activities were trekking, driving, taking ferries, and kayaking.  This blog contains details on my trekking and driving experiences and a highlight of the places I visited.

Having recently completed Vipassana silent meditation (see my last post), this land was the perfect place to enjoy simply being in the present, breathe in the blissfully fresh air, and admire the ethereal nature in awe.  I left the island feeling euphoric, thoroughly cleansed and blessed by the mother nature.  It was a long way from the US and not the cheapest country but well worth it.

The trip/Logistics:

I spent 9 days traveling through South Island in a rental car.  I flew into Queenstown and out of Wellington, the south eastern tip of North Island.  I drove between 2-6 hours on most days, first heading down southwest, then back up north through the midland, out to the west coast, and eventually to the northeastern corner, where I caught a ferry to Wellington.  I missed much of the east coast on this trip as I wanted the glacier experience of the west.  I stayed in Queenstown, Te Anau (gateway to Milford Sound), Wanaka, Fox Glacier, Saint Arnaud, Nelson (near Abel Tasman National Park), and Wellington.

I travelled with a friend and switched hotels almost daily as we migrated through the island.  February was the peak summer travel season and many hotels were already fully booked by the time I started looking in December.  Regardless of the hotel class, I was consistently met with the most hospitable hosts.

The weather constantly changed (forecast was unreliable at best), and it was not uncommon to see sun/blue sky and rain/dark clouds at the same time.  There was a beauty brought on by all weather conditions.

Favorite Experience #1: Trekking

New Zealand is a hikers paradise given its nature’s outstanding diversity and beauty.  I did three trails, each incredible in its own way.  None listed here required any trekking permit.  Be prepared for all weather types and check trail conditions in advance.  Here is a comparison of the treks I did:

Trek #1: Ben Lomond Track in Queenstown – the most scenic, intermediate 6-hour trail (panormic view of Lake Wakatipu and mountain valleys)

This was the longest and the most scenic trek I did, with fantastic open view almost all the way.  I started at the top of gondola rather than hiking up from the city.  Though the last stretch to the summit was pretty steep (doable, just steep), the view got better as I climbed and ended with fairy tale-like panorama of the lake and mountain valley.  The majority of the hike was in open space, and despite the occasional sun, gusts and raindrops, it was totally worth it. (Note: You come down the same way you go up and can still enjoy fantastic view even if you don’t make it to the summit.)

I also loved that you can enjoy drinks and snacks back at the gondola station’s cafe overlooking Queenstown.  I did not eat at the buffet-only restaurant (was fully booked) but can see how it offers the best view of the city.

Trek #2: Rocky Mountain Lake Diamond Track near Wanaka – 3-hour scenic trail (Lake Wanaka and distant glacier views)

This leisurely trail overlooked Lake Wanaka on one side and glacier topped mountains on the other.  It contained a pleasant mix of shady and open trails (can be warm on a sunny day) and was much less straneous than Ben Lomond Track but just as pretty.  The panoramic view from the summit was unforgettable.

This was a last minute change from the popular Rob Roy Track (listed in my guidebook as one of the country’s top 4 tracks).  Because of fresh snowfall in the area, we would have needed to drive across a dozen streams to get to the starting point.  I would still like to trek Rob Roy one day but was very happy with the alternative.

Trek #3: Roberts Point Track in Franz Josef – my favorite! 5-hour challenging trail (stunning greenery with glacier overlook)

This track was not easy but was the most rewarding, and even the challenging part was immensely enjoyable.  The trail began with super pleasant Douglas Walk, which was worthy on its own for its wide forrested trail and a mirror-like lake.  The first swing bridge marked the start of the more challenging Roberts Point Track, which was almost fully shaded by moss-covered trees and included steady inclines, occasional stream crossings and rock leaping.  There were far stretched swing bridges, multiple waterfalls, and open valley and river views.  The trail came to an abrupt end overlooking Franz Josef Glacier, which was simply breathtaking. But it was really the intensity of the greenness of the ground and trees that won me over and made me feel like I was on another planet.

(Note: You go back the way you come but will miss the Glacier view if you don’t make it to the top. There is also a much shorter and easier lower trail that takes you to the bottom of the Franz Josef Glacier, which may be a better option if short on time or hiking experience.)

I was told by two separate local girls that the trek could be done in 3 hours.  They must have been avid hikers as I ended up having to race my way back and it still took me over 4 hours.  The park lists this as a 5-hour hike with stern warnings that the trail is for experienced well-equipped hikers only (i.e. You do need good hiking shoes).

This was an excellent alternative to a +NZ$400 (~US$300) helihike where you fly over and land on the glacier for glacier trekking (I have already seen expansive glaciers at Perito Moreno in Patagonia and was too cheap to pay for a helihike).  The trek is free and you get a great workout, not to mention the spectacular nature that engulf you every step of the way.

(Note: You can find much better pictures of Robert Points Track on coastingnz’s Aug. 1, 2015 blog: Robert Points Track – an Insane Walk in the Wilderness)

Favorite Experience #2: Driving

I don’t drive regularly, but driving through the island’s most scenic, sparsely populated countryside was truly delightful.  I saw more sheep and cows than mankind and at times went for miles without running into a single car.  The drive to Milford Sound from Ta Anau was magical and the most impressive.  I was blessed by so many accidental sunrise and sunset views on the road.

The only thing to keep in mind is to drive on the left side of the road and look to the right in their numerous roundabouts.  Additionally, there are many winding mountain roads to navigate, but the long daylight facilitated driving at night (stayed light outside till close to ~9pm in February).

Places visited:

Queenstown – compact and easily walkable with well-sourced souvenir stores and a sophisticated restaurant scene.  The lakeside town was picturesque and full of energy, though it was touristy (expected) and appeared to be taken over by drunken youths at night (unexpected).

In addition to the Ben Lomond Track (see above), a ferry ride to Walter Pete farm turned out to be a delectable experience suitable for all.  The half day trip on a historic TSS Earnslaw steamship (over 100 years old!) took me through the lovely Lake Wakatipu and came with delicious lunch buffet.

Te Anau – a convenient stopover on the way to Milford Sound.  Though there was not much to do in town itself, it was worth staying overnight in order to catch a morning ferry in Milford Sound and avoid all the day trippers from Queenstown.

Milford Sound – one of the highlights of my trip.  I did a classic 2-hour boat cruise through the mystic mountains covered in tear-like waterfalls out to Tasmanian sea.  But the best part was driving there from Te Anau in the morning as snow capped mountains surrounded me in unforgettable beauty.

Arrowtown – quaint village near Queenstown, on the way to Wanaka from Milford Sound.  I enjoyed seafood dinner in Postmasters Residence’s gorgeous patio.

Wanaka – scenic lake town near Queenstown.  My guidebook listed it as a popular retirement dream place, and I believe it.  My original plan was to hike Rob Roy Track from there but ended up doing Diamond Rocky Mountain Lake Diamond Loop due to road conditions.  I have no regrets (see above).

Fox Glacier/Franz Josef Glacier – launching pads for glaciers.  I hiked to Roberts Point to overlook Franz Josef Glacier (see above).

St. Arnaud – hidden gem on the way from Franz Josef Glacier to Nelson (worth a stop if on the way).

Vineyard – there is no shortage of wineries between Saint Arnaud and Abel Tasman Park if you don’t have time to make it to world famous Marlborough.  I was told the region offers more variety of wine compared to Sauvignon Blanc oriented Marlborough.

Nelson – a big commercial town conveniently located between Abel Tasman Park and Picton.  The restaurant options were good but the town itself lacked the charm I saw in other places.  Next time, I would stay closer to or in the park itself.

Abel Tasman National Park – gorgeous and superb for kayaking.  I did a morning kayak tour with Kaiteriteri Kayaks to Split Apple rock (southern tip of Tasman).  I was lucky to have the most serine water and caught a glimpse of a giant sting ray. Mapua was a cute nearby town to stop for lunch and shopping.

Picton to Wellington ferry – pure tranquility and one of the most mesmorizing ferry rides I have ever taken.  Its ethereal beauty reminded me of Halong Bay in Vietnam.  We even had friendly dolphins swim by us.

Wellington – my final stop in New Zealand.  The eclectic but casual city center is easily walkable, and Cuba street lined with stores and restaurants appeared to be the liveliest area.  A cable car took me to a nearby hilltop overlooking the city, where I enjoyed a stroll in the free botanical garden.

I enjoyed surprisingly authentic fresh sushi at Wasabi Sushi on Cuba Street, which served kaiten sushi (sushi served on a moving conveyor belt; you pick whatever looks good and pay according to the number of plates you had).  The tucked away lounge at The Library was worthy as a final spot for cocktail and dessert.

Next time..

New Zealand is now at the top of my list of places to go back to.  My wishlist for next time include more of what I did plus the followings:

• Mount Cook
• Fiordland National Park
• Rob Roy Track
• Natural hot spring
• Serious star gazing
• Queenstown night view
• More wineries

See you again New Zealand!