12 Days in Vietnam & Cambodia

Magnificent historic sites, vibrant culture, ancient cities, scenic nature, and incredibly delicious food.  So happy I finally made it!

This trip was everything I love traveling for: gaining new perspectives and coming away with new found appreciation for what I have.

It was a long way from the U.S. but well worth it. Twelve days were hardly enough.

Itinerary: 

• 2 nights in Hanoi
• 2-day 1-night cruise in Halong Bay
• 3 nights in Hoi An/Danang
• 3 nights in Cambodia (Siem Reap)
• 1 night in Ho Chi Min City

I had this 12-day 5-destination trip planned while still working full time.  I travelled with a girlfriend from New York and stayed at some of the nicest hotels.  Here are my top experiences by destination.

Hanoi

On the first morning in Hanoi city center, I convinced my high class girlfriend to try a local food stall that serves Pho, the popular Vietnamese rice noodle soup. I watched my friend’s face change from horror as we settled into the no frill place (I ignored her desperate call behind me, leaving her no choice but to follow me inside) to a momentary confusion as she took her first bite, then finally to acceptance and delight as she surrendered herself to the soup. It set the tone for the rest of the trip.

I had 2 full days in Hanoi, including one day of recovery after traveling for 24 hours (13-hour flight from Chicago to Tokyo, followed by a 5.5-hour flight to Hanoi). Food was by far the best part of my Hanoi experience.

Every dish had an amazing melody of flavors, made with the freshest ingredients and garnished with a variety of herbs and sauces.  One food tour guide explained the pork I was eating came from a pig that was likely killed around 2am that day.  It could not have been fresher!

I stayed at Elegant Suite (near Westlake) on the first night and the historic Sofitel Legend Metropole for two nights. I absolutely enjoyed Sofitel, an  urban oasis. Its topnotch cocktail in a tranquil setting was a real treat away from the hustle of the city. I also had the shocking experience of touring an onsite bomb shelter there (part of a hotel tour), whose entrance was nestled between a posh poolside bar and an elegant pool. It was a stark contrast to the luxurious surrounding and a reminder of how fortunate I was to be there for a tour and not out of necessity.

We took a half-day city walking tour, which provided a good feel for the city, and more importantly, taught us how to cross the streets (very important, see my notes at the end). Tuk tuk rides were fun and efficient but came with uncontrolled fume from surrounding motorbikes. Running outside was not a good idea. The bustle of the city made my visit to the green Temple of Literature and spa time highly enjoyable (loved the upscale SF Spa in the heart of Old Quarter; 30-min foot massage cost $10).

Ha Long Bay  

Made up of ~2,000 limestone islands and not one is the same.  I was engulfed in mystical haze on the first day, which made the scenery even more stunning. The pictures do not do justice!

I did a 2-day 1-night cruise on a luxury Chinese-style junk boat with Paradise Cruise, which departed from Tuan Chau Island (vs. the main port in Bai Chay, which I read can get overcrowded). Aside from gazing at varied islands in the calmest water, I visited a fishing village and toured an illuminated cave, which also had a fantastic view overlooking the bay.

Hoi An (by Danang)

Hoi An quickly became my favorite Vietnamese city for its enchanting time slip experience. I stayed at Naman Retreat, a beachfront resort situated in between Hoi An (ancient town) and Danang (where the airport was). I visited Hoi An twice but regretfully did not make it to Hue.

A stroll among the ancient houses adorned with lanterns was delightful day and night (pedestrian only in the center!). Given all the cute stores and my dwindling supply of clean clothes, I found it hard not to shop and even got a pair of sandals, custom made in an hour (a store person traced my feet onto a piece of paper and measured their heights). A walking food tour introduced me to more delectable Vietnamese food and local specialties (my favorite was shrimp dumpling called white rose, named after its shape).

Though we went in the middle of the rainy season, we were blessed with occasional sun, and Naman Retreat proved to be a great choice. Its spectacular grounds adorned with bamboo and lush green, impeccable service with the friendliest employees, and various freebies (e.g. daily yoga and massage) made the experience special.

Siem Reap, Cambodia

This was a place I had been yearning to go to ever since I first saw a picture of Ta Prohm. Even with my high expectations, I was still blown away. In addition to the spectacular display of nature’s destructive force, I saw magnificent temples and encountered some of the most beautiful smiles.

We stayed at Sofitel Angkor, a French colonial elegance with expansive manicured gardens. We hired a private driver and a guide for two full days of sightseeing. Though it was late December, it was 29 degrees Celcius (84F) when we landed in the evening and got even hotter during the day.

Day 1: We covered Beng Mealea (jungle temple) and Phnom Kulen (sacred mountain with carved riverbed, reclining Buddha, waterfall, and much more). Beng Mealea was simply stunning, with trees rising out of the abandoned temple and roots tearing through the structure. We were happy we made a last minute decision to visit Phnom Kulen instead of  Kbal Spean (also known for carved riverbed but we were warned a hike up in the heat would be strenuous).  Phnom Kulen offered a variety of sights and a chance to mingle with the locals as we swam by the waterfall. I felt grateful for a blessing offered by a monk and heart broken at the sight of countless children begging.

Day 2: I toured Angkor Wat, Banteay Srei, Ta Prohm, and Angkor Thom from sunrise to sunset. I was in awe as the world’s largest religious building Angkor Wat emerged from the darkness at sunrise. Ta Prohm was mesmerizing with its massive tree roots overpowering anything in the way. Bayon at Angkor Thom was almost comical and brought out the most joyous feelings with its 216 giant smiling faces.

Ho Chi Min City (Saigon)

This was the last destination and a quick stop in transit. It was nothing like Hanoi with its tall modern buildings, though the food scene was just as excellent. I enjoyed my last pho and some shopping at Ben Thanh Market, continued eating at Lunch Lady (a street food stall featured in Anthony Bourdain’s TV show No Reservations), did a quick tour of Reunification Palace, and had refreshing cocktails at Shri Rooftop overlooking the city.

Thank you Vietnam & Cambodia for such a rich travel experience!

Comments on some practical things:

• Logistics: I flew 3 times locally (Hanoi – Danang – Siem Reap – Ho Chi Min) on Vietnamese Airline ($170 altogether).  Halong Bay was about 4 hours from Hanoi by car. I prearranged for all the airport transfers via Hanoi Transfer Service ($17 per transfer for no hassle experience). There was an abundance of tuk tuk and metered taxis in cities.
• Crossing the streets: Vietnam felt generally safe, but streets were mostly overcrowded, and crossing them was no easy task.  I had to learn to walk straight into oncoming mass of motorbikes and cars, which never stopped for me (they go around pedestrians, so do go slow and do not make hasty surprise moves).  I had never been so relieved to see traffic lights!
• Bargaining: I found all kinds of cute inexpensive souvenirs, but pricing was not uniform and typically required bargaining.  I walked away from one place offering a lantern for VDN220, (bargained down from original 270 but above my final offer of 200) and later bought the same thing for 140 (down from 180).
• Massage was cheap, and Wifi seemed to be everywhere.
• In Vietnam, some of the people at food stalls were rather abrupt, and English was not as widely spoken.  But my attempt at saying thank you in Vietnamese brought out a smile without fail.