Hiking up to Africa’s Ceiling
At 5,895 meters / 19,341 feet, Mt. Kilimanjaro is the highest mountain in Africa and the highest free-standing mountain in the world. It was certainly the highest mountain I had ever attempted at climbing, by far.
I had heard that anyone could make it to the summit with sufficient acclimation time (i.e. no special tools or skills needed). As I was already staying in Mombasa, Kenya, which happened to be a bus ride away from the mountain in Tanzania, I thought hiking up Kilimanjaro would be a cool way to cap off my one-year break and gain a final dose of inspiration before returning to the reality of working life.
The actual hiking experience was daunting. My body did not take altitude too well, and it wasn’t long before I started suffering from nausea and head pressure during my 7-day trek.
But six weeks of living in Kenya before the hike had taught me to persevere by focusing on the present and not worry about how I was going to make it in the future. In fact, the thought of how far we were from the summit and how much longer it would take to reach it became the number one enemy. Looking back, turning that thinking off was the key to my battle. I kept on walking and eventually made it to the summit. It was as simple as that.
Since much of the hike felt to me like slow death, I came away with a sense of rebirth and a new level of appreciation for health & wellness and the simple ability to take in a full breath. The majestic sceneries are still vivid in my memory like no other and serve as a reminder that we are part of the much greater universe.
Preparation
This was no ordinary trek. There are multiple route options offering various levels of challenges, sceneries, lengths and costs. Typical hike takes anywhere from 5 to 9 days. You can’t it alone. In addition to a guide, you need multiple porters for your luggage, food, water, tent, and etc. Standard tours cover all your basic needs such as cooking and putting up tents daily. Lastly, there is no shower on the mountain (I was grateful to get a bucket of warm water twice daily).
I chose a 7-day Lemosho route, which has gained much popularity given its varying scenic trails and good acclimatization time. I joined a budget tour organized by Moshi-based Chief’s Tours (https://chiefstours.com), which delivered excellent service and value thanks to their lean infrastructure. Our group consisted of three tall men plus myself. We were supported by 16 staffs who guided us, carried our stuff and prepared food and shelter for 7 days. In addition to sleeping tents, we got a dining tent large enough to fit a table and chairs for 4. I could not have been happier with Chief’s Tours’s quality of service.
Given all the supporting manpower required, the hike was not cheap. But the real shock was in the national park fee, which came out to US$995 for the trek. This was more than half of my total tour price. In addition, tipping for each staff was rather obligatory and not insignificant.
The Trek
Mt. Kilimanjaro felt more like a mountain range with multiple peaks and valleys rather than a free standing mountain. I do believe any reasonably healthy and fit person can do it, though altitude impact makes the trek challenging, to say the least. While I did not take any altitude pills, even those that did seem to be significantly impacted.
Day 1 (Elevation: 1,830m/6,000ft → 2,650m/8,700ft)
We spent much of the first day organizing, renting gears, driving and registering, followed by a short 6km/4 mile trek. We walked through a lush tropical forest at a leisurely pace and were passed by countless porters along the way. But the highlight was a family of gracious monkeys with fluffy white tails we stumbled upon.
Our tents had already been set up by the time we reached the campsite, and we were welcomed by a plentiful balanced meal, which included soup, fish and avocado. The temperature dropped throughout the evening and it was pretty chilly by the time we went to bed. I felt grateful for the quality gear I had rented from Chief’s Tours, including a heavy duty sleeping bag and a thick padding.
Day 2 (Elevation: 2,650m/8,700ft → 3,850m/12,600ft)
At 16km/10miles, this was our longest trekking day other than the summit day. Tropical forest gave way to alpine forest with breathtaking views. We overlapped with a group of 32 hikers from a UK-based tour company (with well over 100 porters!), and we all marched in a line at a steady pace.
As we walked up into oncoming clouds, the temperature dropped precipitously. Though much of the afternoon hike was on a flatland, walking began to feel more strenuous. The altitude impact showed up in shortness of breath and swollen body parts as I reached the campsite (Shira II Camp). We were welcomed by panoramic mystic view at the camp.
Day 3: (Elevation: 3,850m/12,600ft → 4,000m/13,000ft)
Sunny morning was followed by cold rain, and we began to spot semi-permanent snow on the ground. Vegetation diminished, but alpine trees and jagged rocks created equally impressive sceneries.
We reached the elevation of 4,650m/15,250ft during the 6-hour walk though we ended the day around the same elevation, an important process of acclimatization. Nevertheless, my altitude sickness became more significant with nausea, headaches, and head pressures. My guide kindly began carrying my daypack, which ended up remaining on his back until the last day. Dinnertime got quieter.
During the trek, we passed a blind person trekking with assistance from multiple guides. The sight was a humbling reminder to be grateful for the healthy body despite the altitude sickness. A few days later, we found out this person made it to the summit the same day we did.
Day 4: (Elevation: 4,000m/13,000ft → 4,050m/13,250ft)
The morning trek started with nearly vertical Barranco Wall. This was the only place we needed to engage all four limbs to climb. A long queue formed, allowing us to admire porters skillfully navigate narrow passages among rocks with all their loads on head, back, and/or arms.
Though the remaining trail was much more reasonable, we continued to proceed at a crawling pace, which was all I could manage anyway. Lifeforms further diminished. But the view grew more captivating with clouds far below and stunning Mawenzi peak soaring in spectacular display.
Day 5: (Elevation: 4,050m/13,250ft → 4,700m/15,350ft)
A short 3-hour walk to the Base Camp in the morning felt like intense physical labor. My body protested that a human being should not be up so high without an oxygen tank.
This was when my ego kicked in to help me go on. I considered myself fit and healthy, and there was no reason to fall short of the summit. The general success rate on 7-day Lemosho was 80%-85%. Surely I belonged to the successful group, right? Besides, I had announced my Kili hike on Facebook. Not making it was not an option.
I met my ego’s limit once I reached the Barafu base camp and suffered from an onslaught of nausea and head pressure at 4,700m/15,350ft. While my guides assured me the symptoms were normal, the experience was just not enjoyable. The plan was to rest for the afternoon, have early dinner at 6pm, nap, and wake up at 11pm for tea and biscuits before hiking up 6-7 hours to the Uhuru summit. This was not sounding very appealing at the moment.
The scenery from the base camp was already insanely gorgeous. What was the point of expected suffering when I can sleep in and join my team to descend in the morning? Wasn’t vomiting a good enough reason to stop? Who cares about satisfying ego. I needed something bigger than myself.
I found the answer in my new Kenyan family. Prior to coming to Mt. Kilimanjaro, I had spent six weeks volunteering for Community Based Organizations (CBO) in Mombasa, Kenya, where I helped disadvantaged female groups gain skills and build business (click here for my Kenyan blog post). I started fundraising for them in connection with the Kili hike and had already collected some donations. The thought of letting those women down was impossible.
One of the handicapped ladies at Tunaweza CBO (disabled women group collectively making and selling goods and advocating for their rights in Kenya) had become interested in climbing Kilimanjaro after watching my commitment to training and growing excitement. It broke my heart to tell her it was going to cost impossible sum of money as well as time for her to hike on clutches.
I still wish for her to see Kilimanjaro one day and possibly explore the lower area, but that day was not today. On the other hand, I was only hours away from making it to the summit. I had all four limbs functioning properly and was lucky enough to have the resource to pay for the trek. Everything else seemed like an excuse my mind had produced. So I began my final push to the summit.
Day 6: Summit Day (Elevation: 4,700m/15,350ft → summit @ 5,895m/19,340ft → descent to 3,090m/10,150ft)
The most physically and psychologically challenging day of the trek.
The exhaustion, anxiety and altitude sickness made it nearly impossible to nap in the evening before the 11pm tea & biscuits time. The goal was to depart at midnight to climb ~1,200m/5,200ft and reach the summit shortly after the sunrise (before it got too hot given the proximity to the sun). After silently sipping on tea and forcing down a few biscuits, we set off exactly at midnight.
Challenging was an understatement, and being sleep deprived, altitude sick, and not having a proper meal did not help. But what made the trek particularly brutal was not knowing how far up we needed to go. All we saw in the dark above was a line of flickering headlights, which kept moving higher at an alarmingly steep angle.
My guide’s cheering shouts went straight to my throbbing head. My attempt at any star gazing for much needed amusement was hindered by the glare from my own headlamp. I asked for breaks repeatedly and slowed down the team to a crawl.
It came down to a fierce battle over the mind. The key was to focus only on the present. All I needed to do was to keep stepping one foot in front of the other. That, anyone with properly functioning legs could do. That, however, my beloved ladies on clutches at Tunaweza CBO could not do.
The one time I made the effort to turn down my headlamp, I spotted a bright shooting star speeding across the starlit sky that was more magical than any planetarium I had been to. As the sun began to rise above the neighboring Mawenzi peak, the majestic Kilimanjaro revealed its shape in the glorious twilight. We were almost at Stellar Point, the final place before Uhuru peak.
I was in momentary disbelief when I realized we were not going to take any break to view the sunrise or at Stellar Point. I was running on empty stomach, but the last 45-minute trail stretched out almost flat in front of us. So we continued on.
It took us full 7 hours to reach the summit from Barafu Camp, and it felt like a miracle that all four of us made it. The summit itself was no more than a crowded picture spot (we spent no more than 10 minutes), but the scenery all around in the bright daylight seemed like an outer world floating high above the clouds. I was overcome with an overwhelming sense of gratitude.
As we began descending rapidly, I paid more attention to the magnificent views. It took me 2+ hours to return to the Base Camp, and after some rest, we descended for another 3 hours so our bodies can recover better at lower altitude.
In all, we hiked up 5km/3miles (1.2km/3,990ft elevation gain) and down 13km/8miles (2.8km/9,190ft elevation loss) on this day without proper sleep and food. No wonder I was completely wiped!
Day 7 (3,090m/10,150ft → 1,680m/5,500ft)
After a restful night back on the oxygen-filled land, I felt as if life had returned to my body. I was riding high on the successful summit when a singing (and tipping) ceremony broke out after breakfast.
There was no need to go around the mountain for acclimatization, and an easy 2.5-hour descent brought us to the park exit. We were back in town by mid-day. I could not have been happier when our hotel let us check in early to much anticipated shower and a real bed!
My big toes were exceptions to the revival. Each step during the descent triggered a crushing sensation. I had assumed it was my big toes bumping up against shoes on the descent that caused the pain and made my toenails turn purple in just a day. It took me a few days to realize that the unusual level of pain was from frostbites as numbness persisted.
Fortunately there was no infection, and my toes have largely regained senses. Only the purple pedicure remains as of this writing as a reminder that this was not just a dream.
Was it all worth it?
Absolutely yes.
In addition to the surreal sceneries, experiencing that we are limitless was priceless. The trek also underscored the power of staying present and how each small step can accumulate into a monumental achievement. In fact, taking one step at a time was the only way to get to the summit.
Above all, I have a new appreciation for each full breath that fills me with life. How good does it feel to be able to take a full breath in?
Tips:
- Wear double socks on the summit night to prevent frostbites!
- Consider paying for a portable toilet as bathrooms at campgrounds can be far and difficult to find in the dark, not to mention their strong odor can add to nausea from altitude sickness (I vomited once after using the bathroom).
- If you have long hair, try getting it braided. In addition to all the complements you would get (especially from the locals), you save yourself from having to deal with dirty tangled hair.
Links: The Kenyan foundations remain open for donations (click here for my Kenyan blog post). Even US$10 (1,000 Kenyan shilling) makes a big difference. We sincerely appreciate any support you can provide.
- Tunaweza donation site: https://www.gofundme.com/tunaweza-organization (support Kenyan women with disabilities build a stronger foundation for income generation activities and advocating for their rights)
- Wa-Kesho donation site: https://www.gofundme.com/wakesho-organization (support a Kenyan vocational school provide teenage girls with income generating skills)
Thank you for reading my blog! I am grateful for the many words of encouragement I have received over the past year.