Rishikesh, India

The ultimate yoga destination

My trip to India started with a sprint through the expansive Delhi airport to make a 1.5-hour connection that included obtaining visa on arrival (available for Japanese passport holders), clearing immigration and customs, picking up and rechecking a suitecase, lining up for domestic security check, and finally making my way through what seemed like an eternally-stretched path to the gate.

Luckily I got help from several random strangers, including an airport officer who sprinted with me part of the way after telling him I was a good runner, and a gate agent who did not give up on me even though all the shuttle buses to the plane had long left.

It was a miracle that I made the flight. Little did I know my entire India trip would be magical.

Trip Overview

When I booked this India trip several months ago, my plan was to take things easy and practice some yoga, specifically the physical aspect of yoga.  I decided to spend 3 weeks in Rishikesh in March as it seemed to be the yoga and ashram Mecca of the world.  I also tacked on a few extra days for brief sightseeing in Jaipur, Agra, and Delhi.  I signed up for a 11-day Kriya Yoga training at a well-known ashram in advance but arrived with an otherwise open itinerary.

I went with an open mind, but what I got was well beyond my imagination.  Yoga there was much more of a spiritual exercise and a way of life.  I still went through with the yoga training program but came away with so much more.  Every day brought fresh experiences and surprises, challenging and reshaping my perspectives multiple times over.  It was intense, sweet, and exhilarating, all at the same time.

Rishikesh

Rishikesh was a place like no other.  Located in Northern India by the Himalayas, the whole town was infused with spiritual energy, attracting countless travelers from all over the world. There were numerous ashrams to choose from and no shortage of yoga classes in abundant variety. Everyone there seemed to be on some sort of a spiritual path. I went alone and hardly spent any time by myself as I kept on meeting one divine spirit after another.

The surrounding mountains and wild nature heightened the spirituality, and at its core was the divine Ganga river, which seemed to make everything flow ever so naturally.  Thanks to its relatively cool climate (compared to the rest of India), fresh vegetables and fruits could be enjoyed at least in March.

Rishikesh came with a dose of first time experiences for me, inevitable part of breaking out of an old life pattern especially while traveling.

There were unique spiritual opportunities like Satsang (spiritual Q&A), ashram stays, Ganga bath, and sunset Ganga Aarti.

The most memorable events came spontaneously – being submerged in all colors during holi (a Hindu spring festival where people smudge colors all over you), cave meditation, Indian classical music concerts, astrology reading, visiting a mountain yogi, hitchhiking, and fasting.

Yet, the best part of my stay was seemingly random encounters ending in genuine connections.  I have never met so many beautiful people of all ages and backgrounds in such a short period.

Ashram Stay

I stayed at 3 different ashrams over 3 weeks.  Ashram was a perfect place to learn to let go of the old comfort and immerse in spirituality in a supportive community.  It helped clarify what I really needed to be happy, and my definition of basic necessity kept evolving.

I had two pairs of outfits to wear for the 11 days of Kriya yoga training (required white loose top and bottom) and hand washed clothes daily.  There were occasional cold showers when water heater didn’t work (minor inconvenience). When there was no towel, I used a T-shirt to dry myself (it worked).  Fresh meals were available without having to consult a menu (you eat what they have).  No makeup was warranted, and heels were out of question. Life became simple.  

Ashrams I stayed:

• Osho Gangadham (4 nights) – a gorgeous Osho ashram on Ganga. It is a small secluded campus providing a peaceful setting, and a stay includes Osho meditation classes (it was my first time and very unique).  Also a great place to mingle with other spiritual travelers at a communal dining table.
• Paramarth Niketan (2 weeks) – a large well-known ashram where I took Kriya Yoga training. It is expansive and runs various events and programs.  Its daily evening Ganga Aarti draws a lot of tourists (and cameras).
• Ved Niketan (2 nights) – a quiet traditional ashram with a pretty courtyard. I stayed in their most expensive room, which cost 400 rupees a night (~$6).  They did not take reservations and I was lucky to get a room.  

International Yoga Festival and Kriya Yoga Training at Paramarth Niketan

I attended the last day of a week-long international yoga festival and a 11-day Kriya yoga training course at Paramarth Niketan.

The yoga festival was a major attraction for the town and drew well-known yoga teachers from all over the world.  From the extensive class schedule, I was happy to try a sunrise music meditation class on Ganga (Nada Yoga) taught by a lovely vocalist Anandra George and two Kundalini yoga classes (second one was by mistake as it was listed as “power yoga”, not “authentic power” as was intended, but I ended up loving the class).

I was new to Kriya Yoga.  The training included breathing exercises, gentle poses and mantra chanting in addition to Kriyas.  Kriyas consisted of a series of unique mind exercises designed to clear chakras and help invoke Kundalini. For instance, you may be scanning and naming each chakra and moving head along in one round of breath while chanting, with eyes open (this threw me off the most), and repeating it up to 59 times.  It was easy to lose track and run out of breath if your mind digressed.

Mooji Satsang

One of the first things I heard of upon arriving in Rishikesh was satsang (lecture-style spiritual Q&A), and Mooji’s in particular.  I didn’t know what a satsang was and had never heard of Mooji before.  Rishikesh is a Satsang heaven, drawing many prominent spiritual leaders from worldwide.  I attended satsang by several speakers, but Mooji stood out.  He happened to be there the month I was.

At first I was taken aback by the spectacle at a Mooji satsang: a long line of mostly foreigners outside the gate, security check, a shoe line, then a massive hall where people kept pouring in.  It was a large production with numerous volunteers directing the crowd.  I was impressed how orderly the place was run and how silent the hall remained despite the crowd (a friend counted ~2,000 in one session).

Mooji volunteers added a special touch.  Dressed in immaculate white outfit, they wore the warmest and most graceful expressions, even when telling me my purse was too big and needed to be checked.  It was particularly touching to see those saint-like people use a hand gesture I have come to love: softly placing a right hand over heart, conveying a silent message along with eyes.  Heaven must be filled with people like them.

It was easy to understand Mooji’s appeal.  He has the most compassionate eyes and calmest demeanor, and speaks from his heart so gently in the most natural state.  He discussed how your mind likes to define who you are and confine you to your self image.  Your mind takes you anywhere but present.  You are not your thoughts.  (Click here for the video recording of the March 9 Satsang I saw.)

His messages reinforced what I learned from Vipassana (click here for my Vipassana post) about mind behavior and true self. As he spoke, I felt the trembling of emotions throughout the hall.  It was incredible to witness someone unravel and enlighten.

At the end of my second Mooji satsang, I found myself standing in what was to become Mooji’s greeting path after the session.  As the entire hall was dead silent, I didn’t even realize he was still there (I was watching him depart on a large screen), slowly making his way through a sea of worshippers.

Soon enough, Mooji emerged in front of me.  There was no place to go other than into his arm for what was to become my most memorable group bear hug ever.  As I thanked him, he whispered “wonderful, wonderful, wonderful”, “thank you, thank you, thank you”. I have no idea how I have become so lucky but will not take this for granted.  

Going vegetarian, then fasting

I eat everything, and that includes meat, poultry, and seafood.  Furthermore, I love to eat in general – I grew up in Japan where utmost attention is paid to food.  I may be big on vegetables but had never thought of becoming a vegetarian, let alone not eating.  But not being a vegetarian was not an option in Rishikesh.  There was no liquor in town either.

To start off, I wasn’t sure what and how much I could actually eat on the trip since getting food sick seemed to be common for westerners traveling in India.  I also did not know what to expect from ashram food.

It was a pleasant surprise the first time I ate at Osho Gangdham.  The self service dinner consisted of freshly prepared, simple yet well balanced warm Indian meal with a rich melody of flavors.  It was absolutely delicious (and all you can eat!).  I did not miss eating animal protein and maintained robust energy.  I went on to enjoy mostly India dishes and fresh fruits and salads for the rest of my stay.  That is, until a dreadful idea of fasting was suggested by a new yogic friend.

In traditional yoga, physical cleansing was a prerequisite before you were taught any poses. Accordingly, my friend suggested that I try physical cleansing. In fact, I was to prioritize it over the physical yoga and meditation, which would act as a mere polish for me. This came as a shock to me.

The rationale was simple.  When all the built-up toxins are removed and a body is purified, it will also cleanse the mind naturally. If you are in an impure body, how can you expect your mind to be clear? Point taken.

I was introduced to a host of traditional yogic cleansing rituals.  They were primitive but effective and required a serious investment of time, commitment, and lifestyle changes, however temporary. Some were more physically or psychologically challenging than others. Not eating was the simplest of them.

During the 5-day fast, I was allowed to eat unlimited amount of honey mixed with freshly squeezed lemon juice.  As a first timer and someone with high metabolism, this translated into a lot of honey. Fortunately, the Kriya Yoga training I was undergoing did not require vigorous physical exercises.

Surprisingly I did not get as hungry.  My energy level did drop initially but I started feeling noticeably better after 3 days.  I felt content even when surrounded by meals for other people, and the only thing I felt like eating became fresh perfectly ripe fruits (especially papaya) and maybe a cucumber.

As the five-day period came to an end, I felt as light as a feather.  I celebrated the successful completion with a delightful bowl of fresh fruits, which had never tasted so good. I have received much complements about my skin since fasting and cleansing, which turned out to be the cheapest facial ever.

Now that I can enjoy food again, I have become highly selective about what to put back into my system. I scrutinize every food label and listen to my body when it repels things like fried food. I love how I feel now and hope to maintain it clean.

Brief sightseeing – Jaipur and Agra

I concluded the trip with brief sightseeing stops in Jaipur and Agra before flying out of New Delhi.

I liked Jaipur for its well preserved old town and beautiful architecture. A fresh lassi from Lassiwala tasted amazing after a recent fast.  Thanks to my hyped up physical condition, I was able to power through the 105-degree heat (+40 C) happily.  Coming from a $6-a-night ashram in Rishikesh, Pearl Palace (deluxe room at 1700 rupees, ~$25) was shockingly luxurious and super charming.  It is popular so book in advance.

I could not have left the region without seeing Taj Mahal (an easy day trip on a 2-hour express train from Delhi).  I took a 6-hour train in from Jaipur and stayed overnight in Agra.  That put me at Taj Mahal at sunrise for the the least crowd and milder temperature.

Taj Mahal masked in soft early morning sunrays was absolutely glorious.

It marked a magnificent end to my phenomenal trip, which seemed to have gone by too quickly.  The experiences there were so rich and powerful, I left feeling completely transformed.  Though I have been in Japan for 3 weeks now, Rishikesh remains dear to my heart.