A privileged spiritual journey.

At the end of February, I caught a red eye from Melbourne to Kuala Lumpur, followed by a 5-hour flight to Kathmandu.  In a confused state after having three breakfasts, I glanced over at the window and gasped.  There rose majestic snow-capped Himalaya mountain range in the distance, seemingly at the same height as the plane.  It’s sheer scale and transcending beauty were so powerful even from the distance.  I knew right then that Nepal was going to be an unforgettable trip.

Trip Overview

I had originally meant my weeklong Nepal trip to be a hiking/yoga immersion experience.  But after an exhilarating Vipassana silent meditation experience in January (click here for my Vipassana post), I altered the itinerary to include the sacred city Lumbini where Gotama Buddha was born, instead of the popular scenic lake town Pokhara.

Nepal was a culture shock for me.  Even compared to Cambodia where I recently visited, its poverty appeared to be on another level, with barely functioning infrastructure.  This was all made worse by the devastating earthquake in 2015, which killed nearly 9,000 people.  The widespread damage from the earthquake was very visible in the Kathmandu area, with some of the landmark architecture remaining in crumble.

In Nepal, nothing could be taken for granted, including basic things like electricity and water.  There were rocky dirt roads that I would have considered impassable by car.  A handwritten seat number on a domestic flight ticket.  Having to shout louder than others at an airport crew to get my suitcase at manual baggage claim.  Having to hop on a moving bus after a bathroom stop (I wasn’t even the last one).  Being directed to use a candle at a hotel when the power went out, as if it was the most natural thing (what’s the big deal?).  Bathroom was the worst part of the trip, along with pollution, litter, and general dust.

Despite the scarcity of modern convenience, the country had an inexplicable appeal.  Yes, there have the majestic Himalayas, which draw countless tourists from all over the world.  But it was more the things you can’t see with eyes that touched my heart.  Perhaps it was the kindest Nepalese people that always wanted to talk to you.. smiley women wearing bright lipsticks, slender men posing for selfies, and curious kids wanting to know where I was from.  They seemed to be on a different schedule, with many just sitting around leisurely and staring down at passerby.  Jobs seemed like a rare commodity.  Religion is deeply integrated into the culture, and yet there was so much openness and acceptance.  Every rundown truck was colorfully painted with Hindu gods, Buddha, and/or flowers.

In the ancient city of Bhaktapur, I hired a 32-year-old man who approached me near the ticket office and insisted on giving me a tour despite my apparent lack of interest.  Like many Nepalese, he was a religious Hindu and visited temples daily, Hindu and Buddhist temples alike.  We shared the same values: family, friends, love, integrity, etc.  Despite his young age, he shunned frivolous spending on fashion by his sisters and believed in traditional values and morale principles.  It didn’t take long to realize we were the same.  This was one of my many fondly encounters with Nepalese people.

Later on, I learned he didn’t get a single tourist the day before and I was the only one for the day thus far (it was late morning).  Though I had initially bargained down the tour price to under $4, I ended up paying him full $5 for the 2-hour tour.  This was more than $4 he earned daily on average, or monthly income of ~$120, pretty good considering Nepal’s GDP per capita of $732 as of 2015 (i.e. average income of $61 per month) according to World Bank.

During my limited time in Nepal, I did not spot too many foreign tourists outside Kathmandu (perhaps they all went hiking), but many of the ones I met were repeat travelers.  I now understand why. 

Kathmandu

I spent 2 delightful nights at Kathmandu Guest House (https://ktmgh.com/kathmandu-guest-house/), a charming historic hotel with a large courtyard in the heart of the Thamel tourist district.  I hired a driver through Good Vibe Adventure (www.goodvibeadventure.com) (was considerably cheaper than booking through the hotel) for a day tour that included the iconic Budhanath, Pashupatinath (Hindu temple), Durbar Square (the impressive heart of Kathmandu’s old town), and Swayambhunath (hilltop religious complex), all UNESCO World Heritage Sites.

My favorite was Swayambhunath, also known as Monkey Temple, where 365 steps take you to an ancient hilltop religious complex centered around a stupa, offering panoramic views of Kathmandu.  I was intrigued to find both Buddhism and Hinduism intertwined, with Buddha statues, Hindu gods, shrines and monastery, signifying religious harmony.  The stupa appeared to have survived the earthquake unscratched.  Monkeys and colorful prayer flags adorn the complex.

A visit to Pashupatinath, the largest Hindu temple in Nepal, could not be had without deep emotions. Though non-Hindus are not allowed to enter the temple itself, on a nearby riverbank, I witnessed cleansing of a deceased woman wrapped in a bright orange body bag except for her face, in a customary proceeding before cremation.  Her body was to be burned on a wooden set afterwards.  She had most likely passed away that day and was surrounded by mourning family and friends.  She seemed too young, possibly around my age (I am 39), and I felt pinned to the spot in sadness.  There were more bodies waiting in line.

Lumbini

It was an honor and a privilege to be able to come to the birthplace of Gautama Buddha.  This was where it all began.

My sole intention was to pay utmost respect to the man who discovered something so extraordinary, attained enlightenment, and spread his teachings.  I am grateful that the essence of his teachings has been passed along all this time and remain available to anyone who is interested in moving beyond the mundane world.  To realize that I am not my (loud) mind, nor my (imperfect) body, and to be liberated from the boundaries my mind had long set for myself, has changed my entire perspective.  This was not about religion.  We all have bodies and minds.

The town itself revolves around Sacred Garden and its Maya Devi Temple, which houses some crumbled stones marking the birthplace of Gotama Buddha.  The broader complex is expansive and includes various temples erected by different countries honoring Buddha’s birth.  The city draws religious worshippers and pilgrims primarily from Asia.  But outside Sacred Garden, the whole compound felt utterly deserted and quiet.

If you are just looking to do sightseeing, you do not need more than half a day to visit Sacred Garden and some of the foreign monasteries.  But this is a place to be felt, rather than seen.  Lumbini emanated the most peaceful air, and streams of worshippers heightened the reverence of the place.  I was grateful to have two full days here for the spiritual experience unlike any other, albeit my brief history.  I ended up visiting Sacred Garden twice daily to meditate and soak up the atmosphere.

Being Japanese, the one other temple on my list was the World Peace Pagoda (Japan Monastry).  After admiring the lotus covered pond and visiting the main pagoda, I followed the sound of drums and found myself at a small temple with a few devotees inside.  They were in the middle of an evening prayer, tirelessly chanting “Na Mu Myo Ho Ren Ge Kyo” (from the Nichiren sect of Buddhism in Japan).  The mantra translated into devoting oneself to Lotus Sutra.

After I sat on a floor cushion in the back, a monk walked over to hand me a thin hand drum and a stick.  I naturally jumped on the opportunity to join the prayer.  Emptying the mind and filling it with the endless prayer, I felt utterly lucky that I can fully comprehend and resonate with the sutra, giving the mind no choice but to be subdued.

The prayer continued onto a half-an-hour walk around the pagoda, frequently halted by bows in front of each religious symbol.  I was sad to leave after the chanting walk (I needed to bike back on rocky roads before dark) but came away with a profound sense of inner peace and happiness, with “Na Mu Myo Ho Ren Ge Kyo” long echoing in the mind.

Bhaktapur and Nagarkot

My last destination was Nagarkot, a hilltop farming village in Kathmandu Valley where I would stay for the last night.

Bhaktapur was well worth a stop along the way and a destination on its own (used to film parts of Little Buddha).  Described as a cultural gem and an open museum, the medieval royal city was remarkably well preserved and pleasantly devoid of traffic.  There were intricate wood carvings to be admired and traditional clay pottery making to be observed.  A stroll among narrow back streets lined with faded red brick houses provided a glimpse of unchanging way of life.  It was no coincident my guide was a traditionalist, shunning the modern world, particularly materialism.

On my last morning in Nepal, I jumped out of bed for the last chance to see the Himalayas from the ground on this trip.  I chose to stay in Nagarkot (itself at 2,200 meter elevation, or 7,200 feet) overnight instead of doing a popular sunrise trek from Kathmandu so I can savor the view (hoping there was one!).  My earlier attempts at Himalaya viewing from Kathmandu and its surrounding areas were unsuccessful due to the stubborn smog.  I had heard repeat travelers talk about how they were not able to see the Himalayas on some of their previous trips because of unfavorable weather conditions.  As I had begun pursuing a life of no expectations, I tried to ready myself for whatever outcome that was meant to happen.  It was not like I had any power over weather anyway..

I felt uncertain when I first saw what looked like large clouds amassing above mountains in the dark.  My excitement spiked when I realized they were indeed some massive mountains.  On a hotel’s protruding terrace where the air was filled with anticipation by anxious guests, a silence prevailed as I watched the Himalayas emerge in a spectacular morning glory.  Though Mr. Everest (8,848 meters, or 29,029 feet) could not be spotted, the 7,000-meter mountain range was mesmerizing and humbling, a sight never to be forgotten.  I felt extremely lucky and grateful.

Travel tips 

• There was no need to fix itinerary in advance for travelling in February as you can book everything locally. I had a pleasant experience working with Kisan Thapa from Good Vibe Adventure (goodvibeadventure.com), who understood my intentions and got me good prices for guides and drivers.  Besides, everyone seemed to have friends who can fulfill all your needs, from a last minute tour guide to 2-hour laundry service.
• Allow extra time for in-country travel, from air and bus services (delays were common) to day trips (Kathmandu had serious traffics as of March 2017 partly due to water pipeline construction).
• For my 260-km journey from Kathmandu to Lumbini, I took a bus one way to see the idyllic countryside (9 hours) and flew back for gorgeous Himalaya views (30 minutes).  Finding the right bus was tricky (few English signs and every person we asked pointed to a different bus).  I tipped my taxi driver to find me the right one.
• Get a face mask as a smog protection.  My disposable one turned dark after 2 days.
• In my search for a driver, a “parking lot” turned out to be a street lined with cars, and a “big parking lot” was really a normal parking lot.
• A “new bicycle” for rent meant a beaten down bike that was still somewhat functional (I first tried an “old” bike and could not get it to ride straight.)
• Lower your hygiene expectations and carry your own tissues and hand sanitizers. “Bathroom” can mean anything.