Rishikesh, India

The ultimate yoga destination

My trip to India started with a sprint through the expansive Delhi airport to make a 1.5-hour connection that included obtaining visa on arrival (available for Japanese passport holders), clearing immigration and customs, picking up and rechecking a suitecase, lining up for domestic security check, and finally making my way through what seemed like an eternally-stretched path to the gate.

Luckily I got help from several random strangers, including an airport officer who sprinted with me part of the way after telling him I was a good runner, and a gate agent who did not give up on me even though all the shuttle buses to the plane had long left.

It was a miracle that I made the flight. Little did I know my entire India trip would be magical.

Patna waterfall, my favorite spot in Rishikesh

Trip Overview

When I booked this India trip several months ago, my plan was to take things easy and practice some yoga, specifically the physical aspect of yoga. I decided to spend 3 weeks in Rishikesh in March as it seemed to be the yoga and ashram Mecca of the world. I also tacked on a few extra days for brief sightseeing in Jaipur, Agra, and Delhi. I signed up for a 11-day Kriya Yoga training at a well-known ashram in advance but arrived with an otherwise open itinerary.

I went with an open mind, but what I got was well beyond my imagination. Yoga there was much more of a spiritual exercise and a way of life. I still went through with the yoga training program but came away with so much more. Every day brought fresh experiences and surprises, challenging and reshaping my perspectives multiple times over. It was intense, sweet, and exhilarating, all at the same time.

Devaprayag, where two rivers meet to form the Ganges river

Rishikesh

Rishikesh was a place like no other. Located in Northern India by the Himalayas, the whole town was infused with spiritual energy, attracting countless travelers from all over the world. There were numerous ashrams to choose from and no shortage of yoga classes in abundant variety. Everyone there seemed to be on some sort of a spiritual path. I went alone and hardly spent any time by myself as I kept on meeting one divine spirit after another.

The surrounding mountains and wild nature heightened the spirituality, and at its core was the divine Ganga river, which seemed to make everything flow ever so naturally. Thanks to its relatively cool climate (compared to the rest of India), fresh vegetables and fruits could be enjoyed at least in March.

Rishikesh came with a dose of first time experiences for me, inevitable part of breaking out of an old life pattern especially while traveling.

There were unique spiritual opportunities like Satsang (spiritual Q&A), ashram stays, Ganga bath, and sunset Ganga Aarti.

The most memorable events came spontaneously – being submerged in all colors during holi (a Hindu spring festival where people smudge colors all over you), cave meditation, Indian classical music concerts, astrology reading, visiting a mountain yogi, hitchhiking, and fasting.

Yet, the best part of my stay was seemingly random encounters ending in genuine connections. I have never met so many beautiful people of all ages and backgrounds in such a short period.

Even a cow couldn’t escape colors during holi festivities

Monkey contemplating near Vashistha Cave

Ashram Stay

I stayed at 3 different ashrams over 3 weeks. Ashram was a perfect place to learn to let go of the old comfort and immerse in spirituality in a supportive community. It helped clarify what I really needed to be happy, and my definition of basic necessity kept evolving.

I had two pairs of outfits to wear for the 11 days of Kriya yoga training (required white loose top and bottom) and hand washed clothes daily. There were occasional cold showers when water heater didn’t work (minor inconvenience). When there was no towel, I used a T-shirt to dry myself (it worked). Fresh meals were available without having to consult a menu (you eat what they have). No makeup was warranted, and heels were out of question. Life became simple.

Ashrams I stayed:

Osho Gangadham (4 nights) – a gorgeous Osho ashram on Ganga. It is a small secluded campus providing a peaceful setting, and a stay includes Osho meditation classes (it was my first time and very unique). Also a great place to mingle with other spiritual travelers at a communal dining table.
Paramarth Niketan (2 weeks) – a large well-known ashram where I took Kriya Yoga training. It is expansive and runs various events and programs. Its daily evening Ganga Aarti draws a lot of tourists (and cameras).
Ved Niketan (2 nights) – a quiet traditional ashram with a pretty courtyard. I stayed in their most expensive room, which cost 400 rupees a night (~$6). They did not take reservations and I was lucky to get a room.

Paramarth Niketan’s sunset Ganga Aarti ceremony

Offering to the divine Mother Ganga at Aarti

International Yoga Festival and Kriya Yoga Training at Paramarth Niketan

I attended the last day of a week-long international yoga festival and a 11-day Kriya yoga training course at Paramarth Niketan.

The yoga festival was a major attraction for the town and drew well-known yoga teachers from all over the world. From the extensive class schedule, I was happy to try a sunrise music meditation class on Ganga (Nada Yoga) taught by a lovely vocalist Anandra George and two Kundalini yoga classes (second one was by mistake as it was listed as “power yoga”, not “authentic power” as was intended, but I ended up loving the class).

I was new to Kriya Yoga. The training included breathing exercises, gentle poses and mantra chanting in addition to Kriyas. Kriyas consisted of a series of unique mind exercises designed to clear chakras and help invoke Kundalini. For instance, you may be scanning and naming each chakra and moving head along in one round of breath while chanting, with eyes open (this threw me off the most), and repeating it up to 59 times. It was easy to lose track and run out of breath if your mind digressed.

Famous yogis gathered at Paramarth Niketan’s annual International Yoga Fest’s closing ceremony

My kriya yoga uniform – all white for minimal distraction

Mooji Satsang

One of the first things I heard of upon arriving in Rishikesh was satsang (lecture-style spiritual Q&A), and Mooji’s in particular. I didn’t know what a satsang was and had never heard of Mooji before. Rishikesh is a Satsang heaven, drawing many prominent spiritual leaders from worldwide. I attended satsang by several speakers, but Mooji stood out. He happened to be there the month I was.

At first I was taken aback by the spectacle at a Mooji satsang: a long line of mostly foreigners outside the gate, security check, a shoe line, then a massive hall where people kept pouring in. It was a large production with numerous volunteers directing the crowd. I was impressed how orderly the place was run and how silent the hall remained despite the crowd (a friend counted ~2,000 in one session).

Mooji volunteers added a special touch. Dressed in immaculate white outfit, they wore the warmest and most graceful expressions, even when telling me my purse was too big and needed to be checked. It was particularly touching to see those saint-like people use a hand gesture I have come to love: softly placing a right hand over heart, conveying a silent message along with eyes. Heaven must be filled with people like them.

It was easy to understand Mooji’s appeal. He has the most compassionate eyes and calmest demeanor, and speaks from his heart so gently in the most natural state. He discussed how your mind likes to define who you are and confine you to your self image. Your mind takes you anywhere but present. You are not your thoughts. (Click here for the video recording of the March 9 Satsang I saw.)

His messages reinforced what I learned from Vipassana (click here for my Vipassana post) about mind behavior and true self. As he spoke, I felt the trembling of emotions throughout the hall. It was incredible to witness someone unravel and enlighten.

At the end of my second Mooji satsang, I found myself standing in what was to become Mooji’s greeting path after the session. As the entire hall was dead silent, I didn’t even realize he was still there (I was watching him depart on a large screen), slowly making his way through a sea of worshippers.

Soon enough, Mooji emerged in front of me. There was no place to go other than into his arm for what was to become my most memorable group bear hug ever. As I thanked him, he whispered “wonderful, wonderful, wonderful”, “thank you, thank you, thank you”. I have no idea how I have become so lucky but will not take this for granted.

Mooji Satsang attracting a large crowd daily

Going vegetarian, then fasting

I eat everything, and that includes meat, poultry, and seafood. Furthermore, I love to eat in general – I grew up in Japan where utmost attention is paid to food. I may be big on vegetables but had never thought of becoming a vegetarian, let alone not eating. But not being a vegetarian was not an option in Rishikesh. There was no liquor in town either.

To start off, I wasn’t sure what and how much I could actually eat on the trip since getting food sick seemed to be common for westerners traveling in India. I also did not know what to expect from ashram food.

It was a pleasant surprise the first time I ate at Osho Gangdham. The self service dinner consisted of freshly prepared, simple yet well balanced warm Indian meal with a rich melody of flavors. It was absolutely delicious (and all you can eat!). I did not miss eating animal protein and maintained robust energy. I went on to enjoy mostly India dishes and fresh fruits and salads for the rest of my stay. That is, until a dreadful idea of fasting was suggested by a new yogic friend.

In traditional yoga, physical cleansing was a prerequisite before you were taught any poses. Accordingly, my friend suggested that I try physical cleansing. In fact, I was to prioritize it over the physical yoga and meditation, which would act as a mere polish for me. This came as a shock to me.

The rationale was simple. When all the built-up toxins are removed and a body is purified, it will also cleanse the mind naturally. If you are in an impure body, how can you expect your mind to be clear? Point taken.

I was introduced to a host of traditional yogic cleansing rituals. They were primitive but effective and required a serious investment of time, commitment, and lifestyle changes, however temporary. Some were more physically or psychologically challenging than others. Not eating was the simplest of them.

During the 5-day fast, I was allowed to eat unlimited amount of honey mixed with freshly squeezed lemon juice. As a first timer and someone with high metabolism, this translated into a lot of honey. Fortunately, the Kriya Yoga training I was undergoing did not require vigorous physical exercises.

Surprisingly I did not get as hungry. My energy level did drop initially but I started feeling noticeably better after 3 days. I felt content even when surrounded by meals for other people, and the only thing I felt like eating became fresh perfectly ripe fruits (especially papaya) and maybe a cucumber.

As the five-day period came to an end, I felt as light as a feather. I celebrated the successful completion with a delightful bowl of fresh fruits, which had never tasted so good. I have received much complements about my skin since fasting and cleansing, which turned out to be the cheapest facial ever.

Now that I can enjoy food again, I have become highly selective about what to put back into my system. I scrutinize every food label and listen to my body when it repels things like fried food. I love how I feel now and hope to maintain it clean.

Perfect place to cleanse and nourish from the inside

Brief sightseeing – Jaipur and Agra

I concluded the trip with brief sightseeing stops in Jaipur and Agra before flying out of New Delhi.

I liked Jaipur for its well preserved old town and beautiful architecture. A fresh lassi from Lassiwala tasted amazing after a recent fast. Thanks to my hyped up physical condition, I was able to power through the 105-degree heat (+40 C) happily. Coming from a $6-a-night ashram in Rishikesh, Pearl Palace (deluxe room at 1700 rupees, ~$25) was shockingly luxurious and super charming. It is popular so book in advance.

I could not have left the region without seeing Taj Mahal (an easy day trip on a 2-hour express train from Delhi). I took a 6-hour train in from Jaipur and stayed overnight in Agra. That put me at Taj Mahal at sunrise for the the least crowd and milder temperature.

Taj Mahal masked in soft early morning sunrays was absolutely glorious.

It marked a magnificent end to my phenomenal trip, which seemed to have gone by too quickly. The experiences there were so rich and powerful, I left feeling completely transformed. Though I have been in Japan for 3 weeks now, Rishikesh remains dear to my heart.

Jaipur, layers of gates to enter the old city

Nepal

A privileged spiritual journey.

At the end of February, I caught a red eye from Melbourne to Kuala Lumpur, followed by a 5-hour flight to Kathmandu. In a confused state after having three breakfasts, I glanced over at the window and gasped. There rose majestic snow-capped Himalaya mountain range in the distance, seemingly at the same height as the plane. It’s sheer scale and transcending beauty were so powerful even from the distance. I knew right then that Nepal was going to be an unforgettable trip.

Best flight view ever! The Himalayas all along the way from Bhairahawa (near Lumbini) to Kathmandu

Trip Overview

I had originally meant my weeklong Nepal trip to be a hiking/yoga immersion experience. But after an exhilarating Vipassana silent meditation experience in January (click here for my Vipassana post), I altered the itinerary to include the sacred city Lumbini where Gotama Buddha was born, instead of the popular scenic lake town Pokhara.

Nepal was a culture shock for me. Even compared to Cambodia where I recently visited, its poverty appeared to be on another level, with barely functioning infrastructure. This was all made worse by the devastating earthquake in 2015, which killed nearly 9,000 people. The widespread damage from the earthquake was very visible in the Kathmandu area, with some of the landmark architecture remaining in crumble.

In Nepal, nothing could be taken for granted, including basic things like electricity and water. There were rocky dirt roads that I would have considered impassable by car. A handwritten seat number on a domestic flight ticket. Having to shout louder than others at an airport crew to get my suitcase at manual baggage claim. Having to hop on a moving bus after a bathroom stop (I wasn’t even the last one). Being directed to use a candle at a hotel when the power went out, as if it was the most natural thing (what’s the big deal?). Bathroom was the worst part of the trip, along with pollution, litter, and general dust.

Despite the scarcity of modern convenience, the country had an inexplicable appeal. Yes, there have the majestic Himalayas, which draw countless tourists from all over the world. But it was more the things you can’t see with eyes that touched my heart. Perhaps it was the kindest Nepalese people that always wanted to talk to you.. smiley women wearing bright lipsticks, slender men posing for selfies, and curious kids wanting to know where I was from. They seemed to be on a different schedule, with many just sitting around leisurely and staring down at passerby. Jobs seemed like a rare commodity. Religion is deeply integrated into the culture, and yet there was so much openness and acceptance. Every rundown truck was colorfully painted with Hindu gods, Buddha, and/or flowers.

In the ancient city of Bhaktapur, I hired a 32-year-old man who approached me near the ticket office and insisted on giving me a tour despite my apparent lack of interest. Like many Nepalese, he was a religious Hindu and visited temples daily, Hindu and Buddhist temples alike. We shared the same values: family, friends, love, integrity, etc. Despite his young age, he shunned frivolous spending on fashion by his sisters and believed in traditional values and morale principles. It didn’t take long to realize we were the same. This was one of my many fondly encounters with Nepalese people.

Later on, I learned he didn’t get a single tourist the day before and I was the only one for the day thus far (it was late morning). Though I had initially bargained down the tour price to under $4, I ended up paying him full $5 for the 2-hour tour. This was more than $4 he earned daily on average, or monthly income of ~$120, pretty good considering Nepal’s GDP per capita of $732 as of 2015 (i.e. average income of $61 per month) according to World Bank.

During my limited time in Nepal, I did not spot too many foreign tourists outside Kathmandu (perhaps they all went hiking), but many of the ones I met were repeat travelers. I now understand why.

Kathmandu

I spent 2 delightful nights at Kathmandu Guest House (https://ktmgh.com/kathmandu-guest-house/), a charming historic hotel with a large courtyard in the heart of the Thamel tourist district. I hired a driver through Good Vibe Adventure (www.goodvibeadventure.com) (was considerably cheaper than booking through the hotel) for a day tour that included the iconic Budhanath, Pashupatinath (Hindu temple), Durbar Square (the impressive heart of Kathmandu’s old town), and Swayambhunath (hilltop religious complex), all UNESCO World Heritage Sites.

My favorite was Swayambhunath, also known as Monkey Temple, where 365 steps take you to an ancient hilltop religious complex centered around a stupa, offering panoramic views of Kathmandu. I was intrigued to find both Buddhism and Hinduism intertwined, with Buddha statues, Hindu gods, shrines and monastery, signifying religious harmony. The stupa appeared to have survived the earthquake unscratched. Monkeys and colorful prayer flags adorn the complex.

A visit to Pashupatinath, the largest Hindu temple in Nepal, could not be had without deep emotions. Though non-Hindus are not allowed to enter the temple itself, on a nearby riverbank, I witnessed cleansing of a deceased woman wrapped in a bright orange body bag except for her face, in a customary proceeding before cremation. Her body was to be burned on a wooden set afterwards. She had most likely passed away that day and was surrounded by mourning family and friends. She seemed too young, possibly around my age (I am 39), and I felt pinned to the spot in sadness. There were more bodies waiting in line.

Basantapur Durbar Square in the heart of Kathmandu’s old town, the top of a pillar still toppled over from the 2015 earthquake

Budhanath, one of the world’s largest stupas

Charming buildings surrounding Boudhanath

Steps leading up to Swayambhunath (The Monkey Temple)

Encounter with sadu (holy person) at Pashupatinath. They offered me a blessing!

Kathmandu Guest House in Thamel, Kathmandu

Lumbini

It was an honor and a privilege to be able to come to the birthplace of Gautama Buddha. This was where it all began.

My sole intention was to pay utmost respect to the man who discovered something so extraordinary, attained enlightenment, and spread his teachings. I am grateful that the essence of his teachings has been passed along all this time and remain available to anyone who is interested in moving beyond the mundane world. To realize that I am not my (loud) mind, nor my (imperfect) body, and to be liberated from the boundaries my mind had long set for myself, has changed my entire perspective. This was not about religion. We all have bodies and minds.

The town itself revolves around Sacred Garden and its Maya Devi Temple, which houses some crumbled stones marking the birthplace of Gotama Buddha. The broader complex is expansive and includes various temples erected by different countries honoring Buddha’s birth. The city draws religious worshippers and pilgrims primarily from Asia. But outside Sacred Garden, the whole compound felt utterly deserted and quiet.

If you are just looking to do sightseeing, you do not need more than half a day to visit Sacred Garden and some of the foreign monasteries. But this is a place to be felt, rather than seen. Lumbini emanated the most peaceful air, and streams of worshippers heightened the reverence of the place. I was grateful to have two full days here for the spiritual experience unlike any other, albeit my brief history. I ended up visiting Sacred Garden twice daily to meditate and soak up the atmosphere.

Being Japanese, the one other temple on my list was the World Peace Pagoda (Japan Monastry). After admiring the lotus covered pond and visiting the main pagoda, I followed the sound of drums and found myself at a small temple with a few devotees inside. They were in the middle of an evening prayer, tirelessly chanting “Na Mu Myo Ho Ren Ge Kyo” (from the Nichiren sect of Buddhism in Japan). The mantra translated into devoting oneself to Lotus Sutra.

After I sat on a floor cushion in the back, a monk walked over to hand me a thin hand drum and a stick. I naturally jumped on the opportunity to join the prayer. Emptying the mind and filling it with the endless prayer, I felt utterly lucky that I can fully comprehend and resonate with the sutra, giving the mind no choice but to be subdued.

The prayer continued onto a half-an-hour walk around the pagoda, frequently halted by bows in front of each religious symbol. I was sad to leave after the chanting walk (I needed to bike back on rocky roads before dark) but came away with a profound sense of inner peace and happiness, with “Na Mu Myo Ho Ren Ge Kyo” long echoing in the mind.

Bhaktapur and Nagarkot

My last destination was Nagarkot, a hilltop farming village in Kathmandu Valley where I would stay for the last night.

Bhaktapur was well worth a stop along the way and a destination on its own (used to film parts of Little Buddha). Described as a cultural gem and an open museum, the medieval royal city was remarkably well preserved and pleasantly devoid of traffic. There were intricate wood carvings to be admired and traditional clay pottery making to be observed. A stroll among narrow back streets lined with faded red brick houses provided a glimpse of unchanging way of life. It was no coincident my guide was a traditionalist, shunning the modern world, particularly materialism.

On my last morning in Nepal, I jumped out of bed for the last chance to see the Himalayas from the ground on this trip. I chose to stay in Nagarkot (itself at 2,200 meter elevation, or 7,200 feet) overnight instead of doing a popular sunrise trek from Kathmandu so I can savor the view (hoping there was one!). My earlier attempts at Himalaya viewing from Kathmandu and its surrounding areas were unsuccessful due to the stubborn smog. I had heard repeat travelers talk about how they were not able to see the Himalayas on some of their previous trips because of unfavorable weather conditions. As I had begun pursuing a life of no expectations, I tried to ready myself for whatever outcome that was meant to happen. It was not like I had any power over weather anyway..

I felt uncertain when I first saw what looked like large clouds amassing above mountains in the dark. My excitement spiked when I realized they were indeed some massive mountains. On a hotel’s protruding terrace where the air was filled with anticipation by anxious guests, a silence prevailed as I watched the Himalayas emerge in a spectacular morning glory. Though Mr. Everest (8,848 meters, or 29,029 feet) could not be spotted, the 7,000-meter mountain range was mesmerizing and humbling, a sight never to be forgotten. I felt extremely lucky and grateful.

Bhaktapur, an ancient city in Kathmandu Valley

Best swing view ever.. the Himalayas from Unkai Resort in Nagarkot

Travel tips

There was no need to fix itinerary in advance for travelling in February as you can book everything locally. I had a pleasant experience working with Kisan Thapa from Good Vibe Adventure (goodvibeadventure.com), who understood my intentions and got me good prices for guides and drivers. Besides, everyone seemed to have friends who can fulfill all your needs, from a last minute tour guide to 2-hour laundry service.
Allow extra time for in-country travel, from air and bus services (delays were common) to day trips (Kathmandu had serious traffics as of March 2017 partly due to water pipeline construction).
For my 260-km journey from Kathmandu to Lumbini, I took a bus one way to see the idyllic countryside (9 hours) and flew back for gorgeous Himalaya views (30 minutes). Finding the right bus was tricky (few English signs and every person we asked pointed to a different bus). I tipped my taxi driver to find me the right one.
Get a face mask as a smog protection. My disposable one turned dark after 2 days.
In my search for a driver, a “parking lot” turned out to be a street lined with cars, and a “big parking lot” was really a normal parking lot.
A “new bicycle” for rent meant a beaten down bike that was still somewhat functional (I first tried an “old” bike and could not get it to ride straight.)
Lower your hygiene expectations and carry your own tissues and hand sanitizers. “Bathroom” can mean anything.